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Old Apr 30, 2018 | 04:28 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Nudnik
Well, I replaced the Valve Cover Gaskets w/updated version eliminating the need for a 50 cent mod. Still won’t run. I guess it’s time for new injectors.
Well....., if you want new injectors and can afford them, then I completely understand.

Just be advised that the same issue could rear its head when the new ones are put in....or, you could actually fix the current issue upon install of the new injectors if it is an electrical issue when everything gets plugged in.

To diagnose this properly, we need ICP, RPM's, IPRDC, FIPW, battery voltage while cranking, etc. FORScan is a great little utility to obtain all of this.

We are simply trying to help save your money just in case you would like to spend it somewhere else.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2018 | 04:41 PM
  #17  
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I appreciate all the help!

We got it to run for a bit & then it died.
Trying to get it to run again now
While cranking;
ICP= 2036.5
RPM = 315
IPRDC = min-15, max-64
FIPW= 5.33
battery = min 10.1, max 11.9
 
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Old Apr 30, 2018 | 07:01 PM
  #18  
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Here’s what I did today:
I installed new VCGaskets w/the updated harness (no additional connection), replaced the ICP & the IPR off my old engine that ran fine 6 months ago (except the slight rod knock). I put a used crank position sensor on it last Saturday with no effect.

When I crank it, it turns over for 10 seconds or so & shortly after I see oil pressure on the dash, it will start to fire but won’t run on its own. I got it to run on its own twice today by trying to start it for 15-20 seconds at a time for 5 or 6 times & then on the 8th or 9th try the RPMs would build & it ran. Both times it ran for 5 or so minutes. It started out running rough but then smooth out a little before dying. Even when it smoothed out, it was still misfiring on at least 1 or 2 cylinders. Unfortunately I didn’t get a scanner on it in time to do a contribution test. You can see my post above for the data while cranking. When I’m starting it, it does make a loud clacking sound like it’s got way too much fuel in the cylinder which seems to coincide with the high ICP number. I did replace all the seals & crush washer on the used injectors before installing them.

If I can get it to run again this week, I plan to do a contribution test but not sure if that’ll happen. I feel like it wants to run when it’s cold but when it gets warm from me trying to start it over & over, it doesn’t run. I’ll try to start it again tomorrow after work & hopefully I’ll have some more results.

Once again, thanks for all the help. BTW, if anyone is in north Texas & is in the market for some guns, I’ll probably be selling some toys to fund my injectors which feels inevitable at this point.
 
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Old May 1, 2018 | 04:19 AM
  #19  
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What's your fuel pressure?
 
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Old May 1, 2018 | 05:42 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by HD Rider
What's your fuel pressure?
70 psi, see post #14
 
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Old May 1, 2018 | 08:03 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by AllaboutMPG
Is the gauge post filter or pre filter? Is the standpipe check valve in your filter bowl still installed?
maybe you missed these questions?? The gauge I'm asking about is the fuel pressure gauge
 
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Old May 1, 2018 | 10:11 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by AllaboutMPG
maybe you missed these questions?? The gauge I'm asking about is the fuel pressure gauge
I actually have 2 gauges installed, 1 pre & 1 post, both read the same PSI. The valve in the fuel bowl has been removed.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2018 | 08:00 PM
  #23  
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Back to the drawing board

Well, it wasn’t the injectors. I wish I would have tried some other things before spending $1200 on injectors but at least I have new injectors now. I finally installed the new injectors & the truck is exhibiting similar symptoms to what started this whole ordeal. I did get the truck to run & idle (40+ minutes) after the new injectors but it wouldn’t rev above 2000 rpm. It would even drive (somewhat sluggish) for a few hundred feet but then it would start to struggle to the point that it actually died on me. I discovered if I shut it off for 5 minutes or more, it would drive fairly well for a few hundred feet but would then struggle the more throttle I gave it. It idles pretty well (a little rough) but really struggles under throttle. I put fresh diesel in my auxiliary tank so I think I’ve ruled out bad fuel. Fuel pressure is still good at the bowl. After 10 hours of working on it today (thanks to snapping an injector retaining bolt in the head, I decided to call it quits for today. Tomorrow I’ll throw a scanner on it & see what the HPOP is doing & do a contribution test now that it’s running again. I’ll keep y’all updated.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2018 | 07:30 PM
  #24  
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Based on some research, I replaced the IDM & the IPR. Still the same symptoms. Next thing on the list is probably going to be the HPOP. At this point I'm just throwing parts at it because nothing that follows normal diagnosis is fixing the problem.
​​
 
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 01:19 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Nudnik
Well, it wasn’t the injectors. I wish I would have tried some other things before spending $1200 on injectors
Well, I hate to say it....so I won't.

Stewart
 
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 06:25 AM
  #26  
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I don't see any real troubleshooting going on here, just shotgun blasts. Since you are willing to order stuff and spend money, might I suggest you first order a proper OBDII scan tool setup to find out what's wrong before you fix what's not. Feel free to click away at the links in my signature to learn more.

Oh... your ICP sensor is unplugged. 15% IPR doesn't deliver 2000 PSI pressure under any circumstances except an unplugged ICP sensor. When driving down the highway at 65 MPH on the flat, 17% delivers about 1100 PSI on a T500 HPOP.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2018 | 12:22 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Tugly
I don't see any real troubleshooting going on here, just shotgun blasts. Since you are willing to order stuff and spend money, might I suggest you first order a proper OBDII scan tool setup to find out what's wrong before you fix what's not. Feel free to click away at the links in my signature to learn more.

Oh... your ICP sensor is unplugged. 15% IPR doesn't deliver 2000 PSI pressure under any circumstances except an unplugged ICP sensor. When driving down the highway at 65 MPH on the flat, 17% delivers about 1100 PSI on a T500 HPOP.
just curious what about the numbers & diagnosis I provided above makes you think I’m not troubleshooting? We put an actual Ford Scantool on the truck numerous times to help with troubleshooting. Hell, other than an IPR & the injectors, I haven’t spent money throwing parts at the problem. We’re leaning towards a HPOP taking a crap slowly since it appears the pressure drops as the engine gets put under pressure. Either that or it’s got a high pressure oil leak internally in the engine. Fingers crossed that’s not the problem.

Oh & the ICP is not unplugged. The numbers I provided are what we discovered as part of our diagnostic efforts. Those are why we think the HPOP might be the culprit.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2018 | 11:19 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Nudnik
...just curious what about the numbers & diagnosis I provided above makes you think I’m not troubleshooting?
...I haven’t spent money throwing parts at the problem.


Say what?

Originally Posted by Nudnik
Based on some research, I replaced the IDM & the IPR. Still the same symptoms. Next thing on the list is probably going to be the HPOP. At this point I'm just throwing parts at it because nothing that follows normal diagnosis is fixing the problem.
​​
See post number 5, 6, 24, & 25.

Stewart
 
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Old Jun 7, 2018 | 11:30 AM
  #29  
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Have you tried running it with the ICP unplugged? Since 2000psi isn't possible with the ipr at 15%, maybe the ICP is faulty and sending a high reading and the IPR is trying to correct the false high by driving pressure lower?
 
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Old Jun 7, 2018 | 12:09 PM
  #30  
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I know this has been going on a while, and what I'm about to ask may have been already ruled out, but nothing has been mentioned about it yet. Therefore, I have the ask the "Is it plugged in?" question...



Have you checked the oil level in your sump?
 
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