Dead Diesel-HELP
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 621
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From: Near the ocean
Dead Diesel-HELP
Well, today my truck wouldn't start after running all over. Worse yet, it was in the Home Depot parking lot for everyone to see. Really embarrasing. I take pride in keeping my truck up to snuff. Problem seems to be leaking return lines and o-rings. I changed them several years ago but they are "weeping " a little. My question is....The Ford garage will sell me 16 o-rings for .94 ea and the fuel line for 2.79ft. Do I need to change the clamps also? They don't have any in stock anyway. The parts man says they never do and they don't change the Tees either unless they are broken. I remember you guys discussed different types of o-rings. I think you said "vitron" for Bio Diesel. Will that be the case with the new ones from Ford? This guy was not helpful when I asked. I could get a whole kit for 90.00 but would rather not right now. Is that return line 5/16? I presume they will sell me fuel line that is compatible with Bio. In case my info doesn't post...93 F-250 7.3na with Banks turbo
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,638
Likes: 1
From: Manitoba
Visit...... change the whole thing, lines caps and orings, get the one's for a Ford and a turbo application..
( return line kits/ injector install kit )
http://www.mwfi.com/dieselPage/ford_69.htm
http://www.mwfi.com/dieselPage/ford_73.htm
http://www.dieselpage.com/dlk.htm
Here is how to....
First disconnect injector cap nuts, "do not bend lines" but move them away enough to get the return line caps off as a complete set per side.
After removal of the complete return cap and lines sets, build new sets identical. To remove old orings use a dental or oring pick with a razor knife, do not mark the injector body. When installing orings use lots of grease and roll first one into top groove, then roll second over that to bottom groove. When installing the new lines and caps use grease inside the cap and on orings, place them on respective injectors and gently push straight down until it pops into place on the orings. Install the line capnuts 22ftlbs torque. There should be a small space between the return cap and line capnut when finished, any major leaks mean caps are not seated or orings are cut or line cap nut is not tight. I have done two sets lately and found bleeding 1-2 injectors at a time on opposite side the best. Tighten lines then place fuel pedal to floor and fast idle and timing advance on, crank for 15 seconds max, mine started after 4th injector was on line.
Note when cranking engine and bleeding there will only be a slight amount of fuel/bubbles seen, no major squirting gysers, that only happens with engine running at idle RPM.
( return line kits/ injector install kit )
http://www.mwfi.com/dieselPage/ford_69.htm
http://www.mwfi.com/dieselPage/ford_73.htm
http://www.dieselpage.com/dlk.htm
Here is how to....
First disconnect injector cap nuts, "do not bend lines" but move them away enough to get the return line caps off as a complete set per side.
After removal of the complete return cap and lines sets, build new sets identical. To remove old orings use a dental or oring pick with a razor knife, do not mark the injector body. When installing orings use lots of grease and roll first one into top groove, then roll second over that to bottom groove. When installing the new lines and caps use grease inside the cap and on orings, place them on respective injectors and gently push straight down until it pops into place on the orings. Install the line capnuts 22ftlbs torque. There should be a small space between the return cap and line capnut when finished, any major leaks mean caps are not seated or orings are cut or line cap nut is not tight. I have done two sets lately and found bleeding 1-2 injectors at a time on opposite side the best. Tighten lines then place fuel pedal to floor and fast idle and timing advance on, crank for 15 seconds max, mine started after 4th injector was on line.
Note when cranking engine and bleeding there will only be a slight amount of fuel/bubbles seen, no major squirting gysers, that only happens with engine running at idle RPM.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 566
Likes: 3
From: New Jersey
I got my kit on Ebay for $32. It came with all new o-rings, clamps, plastic return fittings, rubber hoses with braided jacket, and copper washers for the injectors. It went in great and I haven't had any leaks since.
P.S.: I checked Ebay and item #170086551390 is one of these kits. It's a little more than I paid, but still a good price. $36 + $8 s/h.
P.S.: I checked Ebay and item #170086551390 is one of these kits. It's a little more than I paid, but still a good price. $36 + $8 s/h.
Last edited by matts156; Mar 5, 2007 at 04:11 PM.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 621
Likes: 1
From: Near the ocean
Originally Posted by PLC7.3
Visit...... change the whole thing, lines caps and orings, get the one's for a Ford and a turbo application..
( return line kits/ injector install kit )
http://www.mwfi.com/dieselPage/ford_69.htm
http://www.mwfi.com/dieselPage/ford_73.htm
http://www.dieselpage.com/dlk.htm
Here is how to....
First disconnect injector cap nuts, "do not bend lines" but move them away enough to get the return line caps off as a complete set per side.
After removal of the complete return cap and lines sets, build new sets identical. To remove old orings use a dental or oring pick with a razor knife, do not mark the injector body. When installing orings use lots of grease and roll first one into top groove, then roll second over that to bottom groove. When installing the new lines and caps use grease inside the cap and on orings, place them on respective injectors and gently push straight down until it pops into place on the orings. Install the line capnuts 22ftlbs torque. There should be a small space between the return cap and line capnut when finished, any major leaks mean caps are not seated or orings are cut or line cap nut is not tight. I have done two sets lately and found bleeding 1-2 injectors at a time on opposite side the best. Tighten lines then place fuel pedal to floor and fast idle and timing advance on, crank for 15 seconds max, mine started after 4th injector was on line.
Note when cranking engine and bleeding there will only be a slight amount of fuel/bubbles seen, no major squirting gysers, that only happens with engine running at idle RPM.
( return line kits/ injector install kit )
http://www.mwfi.com/dieselPage/ford_69.htm
http://www.mwfi.com/dieselPage/ford_73.htm
http://www.dieselpage.com/dlk.htm
Here is how to....
First disconnect injector cap nuts, "do not bend lines" but move them away enough to get the return line caps off as a complete set per side.
After removal of the complete return cap and lines sets, build new sets identical. To remove old orings use a dental or oring pick with a razor knife, do not mark the injector body. When installing orings use lots of grease and roll first one into top groove, then roll second over that to bottom groove. When installing the new lines and caps use grease inside the cap and on orings, place them on respective injectors and gently push straight down until it pops into place on the orings. Install the line capnuts 22ftlbs torque. There should be a small space between the return cap and line capnut when finished, any major leaks mean caps are not seated or orings are cut or line cap nut is not tight. I have done two sets lately and found bleeding 1-2 injectors at a time on opposite side the best. Tighten lines then place fuel pedal to floor and fast idle and timing advance on, crank for 15 seconds max, mine started after 4th injector was on line.
Note when cranking engine and bleeding there will only be a slight amount of fuel/bubbles seen, no major squirting gysers, that only happens with engine running at idle RPM.
