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Oil change time.

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Old Apr 20, 2018 | 11:35 AM
  #1  
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Oil change time.

6.7, 4x4 first oil change 7000 - 7500 miles. Just looking to make sure I have everything planned right before I start.

Drain the oil, making as little mess as possible.
Change the filter, pre-fill the new one before installing.
Replace oil. 13 quarts total.
Reset the oil life monitor
Top off DEF (I'm at about a quarter tank)
Grease U joints at front hubs.
Drain water separator, I did this about about 2000 as well, but at the oil change seems like a good time as well.

Any service items I am forgetting?
 
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Old Apr 20, 2018 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by harmanrk
Grease U joints at front hubs.
When did they start putting in greaseable axle joints?
 
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Old Apr 20, 2018 | 11:45 AM
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I honestly don't know, but I remember reading it somewhere that the front axle had serviceable u joints, bot not on the drive shaft..
 
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Old Apr 20, 2018 | 12:13 PM
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The oil filter will be the worse part. Once you break the seal loose, oil will flow down every side of it. It has a little weight to it, so have a good hold or it will slip out of your hands and make a mess. Have good cover on the ground for any possible spash.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2018 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by railrode1
The oil filter will be the worse part. Once you break the seal loose, oil will flow down every side of it. It has a little weight to it, so have a good hold or it will slip out of your hands and make a mess. Have good cover on the ground for any possible spash.

I use a punch to make a small hole in the bottom of the filter. It lets the filter drain so it doesn't make such a mess when I spin it off. It does take a few minutes for it to drain fully.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2018 | 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by railrode1
The oil filter will be the worse part. Once you break the seal loose, oil will flow down every side of it. It has a little weight to it, so have a good hold or it will slip out of your hands and make a mess. Have good cover on the ground for any possible spash.
The plan is to get a 5 gallon bucket under it, in case it drops. The other little secret to make future changes easier is the drain plug gets replaced with a Flomoto valve. No issues catching 12 quarts next time.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2018 | 01:07 PM
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Front axle joints each have a zerk fitting - grease away.
Like Clubwagon says, I did same and punched the filter first and let it drain for a long time to keep the mess at a minimum. Loosen the oil cap up top first to allow air into the engine. Once the filter is off and the filter area where it screws onto had stopped dripping, I moved the bucket to the oil pan and drained that, letting it drip out for about an hour - wanted all the old oil gone as much as possible. I was not in a rush. Perfect time to drain the water filter and grease the front while waiting. I use this system now after the first change: https://www.nospillsystems.com/
 
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Old Apr 20, 2018 | 02:47 PM
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Double check that the old oil filter rubber gasket isn’t stuck to the mounting base. Don’t want to install new filter with a double gasket as the ensuing oil slick will not be pretty.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2018 | 02:53 PM
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Take a sample in the middle of the drain (a Fumoto valve makes this easy) and send it off for evaluation. I send my stuff to Blackstone Labs. In fact, USPS says they just received the sample from me TODAY for the oil change I did this past weekend.

Also, I drain my fuel/water separator every 5K miles (more often than oil changes). It's SO simple to do on these trucks.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2018 | 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Fr8dog69
Double check that the old oil filter rubber gasket isn’t stuck to the mounting base. Don’t want to install new filter with a double gasket as the ensuing oil slick will not be pretty.
Been changing my own oil for nearly 25 years. This was the first time I've ever had the gasket stick on the housing. Very little issue with the filter otherwise. One minor 'slosh' with the pan, as the pan was draining, but other than that no issues.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2018 | 11:42 PM
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I punched a hole in the bottom of the oil filter, then had to punch a hole in the side to get enough leverage to loosen the filter. As soon and it would spin I put a gallon milk jug (with the bottom cut off, cap on) under the filter. That caught all the stray oil that didn't come out the hole punched in the bottom of the filter. That made for a very clean oil change.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2018 | 12:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Clubwagon
I use a punch to make a small hole in the bottom of the filter. It lets the filter drain so it doesn't make such a mess when I spin it off. It does take a few minutes for it to drain fully.
I use the same trick...works well.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2018 | 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by harmanrk
Been changing my own oil for nearly 25 years. This was the first time I've ever had the gasket stick on the housing.
~37 years myself and, when I changed my oil last Monday, it was the FIRST time I've ever had the gasket from the old filter stick to the vehicle. Easy to see, so, no big deal.
 
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