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Thanks. Can you give me a few more details? How to shim and what should the output be?
Remove the connector, measure the resistance across the pins that the Brown/Green (sig) and the Black/White (sig-rtn) wires connect to.
For shimming, use something thin, computer paper to gasket material.
Loosen/remove the screws and try to shim the sensor up slightly, tighten screws. Then re-measure the resistance for a change.
Resistance range on the sensor is about 5500 to 100 ohms. The higher the resistance I believe is at closed EGR Valve.
If you have the sensor off, measure it, depress the rod for the other extreme.
So, I think you should be measuring near the higher resistance as it sits right now.
Record your results.
Increasing the resistance of the EVP by allowing the shaft to extend further, should lower the voltage that the computer/ECA is sensing.
(Assuming the shaft is to long)
i'll try that also... but first... I came in to read this post went back out and my oil pan gasket blew out the back side. The truck has set for about 30 min. I changed the pan and filter two months ago with no issues. Is this a symptom of some other issue or just slap a new gasket on it?
If it was a bad install would it take 2 months to pop a leak?
sure. lots of uknowns on this end. type gasket. type gasket seal. what process. gasket alignment. what has happened over the past 2 months, only you know.
It wouldn't be the first, and won't be the last.
Yes, both pvcs are working. No oil blowing. Hmmm lots been going on with this beast.
I just moved the truck and no trans leaking. It looks to lost about 3q. Last i checked it (last week all fluids were in range) Im heading to get new gasket and tranfluid gasket sealer. I used black last time. Ill install it in the AM. Not enough day light left. Only thing that might be out of the norm (trans) is when i put it in gear there is a loud hiss from front driver side. I cant find where its coming from. Its been there since i bought it in DEC. That was going to be my next fix.
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