When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Didn’t even think about the buzz test with Forscan. Can do that tomorrow morning. Truck should be cooled down enough to confirm. Does the buzz test run in order 1 through 8?
Yes, it will buzz them in numbered cylinder order. So it will start with #1 click, #2 click, #3 click.... The clicks will be evenly spaced in time so if you have a pause in the audible clicks then that will be your problem injector. It helps to count out loud. After it clicks cylinder #8 it will buzz all of them and then start over one more time with the test.
Yes, it will buzz them in numbered cylinder order. So it will start with #1 click, #2 click, #3 click.... The clicks will be evenly spaced in time so if you have a pause in the audible clicks then that will be your problem injector. It helps to count out loud. After it clicks cylinder #8 it will buzz all of them and then start over one more time with the test.
Thank you for the information! Going to check them now.
Okay, number 6 does not buzz. Four doesn't have the distinct click the others do, it sounds much softer. Probably best to replace those two I'm guessing.
Just resistance checked #6, 1-2 is .5ohm, 3-4 is 1.1ohm. 1-3 is open, 2-4 is open. Looks like stuck valve? Would it be worth cleaning or with 170,000 and no knowledge of any previous replacement should I just drop new ones in?
Just resistance checked #6, 1-2 is .5ohm, 3-4 is 1.1ohm. 1-3 is open, 2-4 is open. Looks like stuck valve? Would it be worth cleaning or with 170,000 and no knowledge of any previous replacement should I just drop new ones in?
I would drop in Motorcraft remans, only injector that belongs in a 6.0
I would seriously consider doing all 4 of them on the drivers side if you believe that 4 and 6 need replacing (mainly because of the labor to go back in there). It is another $400 though, so I can understand why it would be a hard decision.
Have two Motorcraft injectors on the way. Pulled the valve cover this evening and noticed the white wires to 4 and 6 looked to have a much more yellowish tint to them. From what I’m seeing it looks like 2 and 8 have been replaced. This is remarkably easy to do. Will pull the injectors when the new show up and will replace injector nipple cup o-ring while I have the rail off.
Looks like you're making headway. When ohm'ing out the injector coils you are checking circuits (1 to 2 & 3 to 4) so the results cannot give an indication of a sticky valve, only a bad coil.
You're on the right track. It's a toss up on doing all 4 now since the two look newer. I'd probably do just the bad old looking ones, 4 & 6. Also if the nipple cups are tight I would NOT even mess with them.
Nice post Pete (I wish FTE had a "like" button)! Reps sent.
Thank you. I been meaning to bring this up for folks without IDS. I have IDS and I still always start a diagnosis with a simple cold buzz test just to hear what's going on. It can point you in the right direction sometimes immediately and almost anyone can do a buzz test by some means.
Great point on the buzz test. Have done it in the past and it never crossed my mind.
When you say the nipple cups are tight, how do you mean? Mine move but they aren’t loose. I’m only guessing they should be able to pivot in the oil rail just not flop around.
When it comes to things by feel it hard to say, If you can flip it from one point with just one finger
with a light press. Then you might want to look into new O-rings. Smug is relative but if you can
grab it by two fingers and move it your in the right zone. You just don't want it flopping around
if moving in and out.
What is odd is that I have one engine with 220K on it and they are still good and the new truck
with only a bit over 92K had to be done. They were very loose.
Looks like you're making headway. When ohm'ing out the injector coils you are checking circuits (1 to 2 & 3 to 4) so the results cannot give an indication of a sticky valve, only a bad coil.
You're on the right track. It's a toss up on doing all 4 now since the two look newer. I'd probably do just the bad old looking ones, 4 & 6. Also if the nipple cups are tight I would NOT even mess with them.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
