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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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Old Apr 20, 2018 | 09:16 PM
  #46  
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Ok will check it tomorrow it's new as well so I'll see. Last time I checked it thinking it was clogged and causing me some of those rough idling issues it was fine. Is there an easy way to stop the overflowing issue until I can get the new tank and stuff.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2018 | 09:20 PM
  #47  
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When you take the filter off, drain in onto a white paper towel. If there is a bunch of dirt, there is really no way to feed it dirty fuel and have to run reliably. As you go down the road and go around turns and bumps, it can stir the dirt up in the fuel tank even worse.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2018 | 09:26 PM
  #48  
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Ok I'll check that tomorrow to see if its dirty. Mine is screwed into carb and it's one of the screen ones.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2018 | 10:15 PM
  #49  
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If the truck spent its entire life (and you live in) a dry climate, rust inside of tanks is generally not a problem. I can probably count one hand the number of actual rusty tanks I've seen in my life.

That's not the case in humid environments, though.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2018 | 10:20 PM
  #50  
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East texas about as humid as you can get lol
 
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Old Apr 20, 2018 | 11:10 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Kenneth Spivey
East texas about as humid as you can get lol
You think I'm kidding!
 
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Old Apr 22, 2018 | 01:09 PM
  #52  
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Ok update time. Made some more adjustments today on timing and mixture. The timing I had set at 6 below tdc as stated on sticker on truck. I watched a video awhile back where a guy was doing a timing chain on same motor. He stated he set his at 14 below tdc. So after many attempts to get mixter screw set to be in green on vacuum gauge and seeing it showing engine timing behind. I decided to try 14 and boy did she liven up. Got it at 14 below tdc vacuum gauge showed normal. So left that alone and went back to mixture screw got it set 1/2 turn out from engine slowing. I'm thinking it was the culprit of the flooding. It was all the way open so I think it was dumping to much fuel in and motor couldn't burn it fast enough causing the flooding. Not sure if my theory is correct but after all the flooding has stopped for now.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2018 | 03:14 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Kenneth Spivey
Ok update time. Made some more adjustments today on timing and mixture. The timing I had set at 6 Before tdc as stated on sticker on truck. I watched a video awhile back where a guy was doing a timing chain on same motor. He stated he set his at 14 Before tdc. So after many attempts to get mixter screw set to be in green on vacuum gauge and seeing it showing engine timing behind. I decided to try 14 and boy did she liven up. Got it at 14 Before tdc vacuum gauge showed normal. So left that alone and went back to mixture screw got it set 1/2 turn out from engine slowing. I'm thinking it was the culprit of the flooding. It was all the way open so I think it was dumping to much fuel in and motor couldn't burn it fast enough causing the flooding. Not sure if my theory is correct but after all the flooding has stopped for now.
I fixed it (Before TDC) for you that is what Before Top Dead Center stands for.
The 6* BTDC the factory has it set for is to pass emissions. A little late spark will burn the fuel mix a little better and makes the motor run a little hotter.

If you find at 14 BTDC you get spark knock/pinging turn it back to say 12 BTDC. If still then back more till the knock stops as knocking is bad.
Dave ----
 
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Old Apr 22, 2018 | 03:43 PM
  #54  
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I set my initial as high as it will go without it struggling to start in hot weather. If you get any pinging, it is usually from the vacuum advance unit. You can test this by unplugging the line from the dist and putting a screw in it, and then going for a test ride to see if the pinging goes away.

I have been down this road, I really liked how it ran with it advanced like that, but then I did have to keep turning it back to get rid of the pinging till I basically ended up back were I was, close to the sticker setting. I did not like that, so for awhile I drove mine with the advance setting and kept the vacuum advance disconnected. It ran so much better that way.

I then later started experimenting with limiting the amount the vacuum advance could advance, and starting experimenting with hooking it back up, adjusting it little by little to bring it back into play.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2018 | 07:18 PM
  #55  
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Well I drove it quit a bit about 30 minutes or so and no pinging or knocking. It's running so much better and smoother. I'm still dealing with a voltage drop so gotta go back to the drawing board on that one.
 
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