Misfire
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Taxachusetts
Okey Doke.
Let us know how you make out.....and I don't know what the technical term for it would be. That is the one going to/from the ICM?
Mebbe just cut it out (leaving enough wires just in case) and bring it to the parts store.....you might just have to make your own splices/connections.
Good luck.
Let us know how you make out.....and I don't know what the technical term for it would be. That is the one going to/from the ICM?
Mebbe just cut it out (leaving enough wires just in case) and bring it to the parts store.....you might just have to make your own splices/connections.
Good luck.
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
Those connectors in the harness can be difficult to find. They carry some of the connectors to the different components like you one you bought, but the ones up in the middle of the harness are the ones they do not carry. How many wires go through it? If it's not more than 4, I would buy a trailer plug male and female and put that in place. It will not be original, but totally functional. If it's more wires than that, then I would look online for some other universal plug-in.
You are all around the problem, keep plugging away I think you will get it soon.
You are all around the problem, keep plugging away I think you will get it soon.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2016
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From: Northern VA
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Found the female side on there no male side. And I really don't care to spend almost 30 bucks on one connector with shipping. I think I'm just gonna make my own using spade connectors and heat shrink.
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From: Virginia
You can do that if the wires are color for color, or you mark them carefully on each side. Years down the road you do not want to be doing engine work and afterward trying to figure out the wiring. It may never be pulled apart again, but it may be next year when you have to do some engine work on it.
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Everything connected to motor has separate plugs. Not to mention if I connect them Same as they are on this plug then wouldn't that tell me where they will need to be connected later on as well? I may just go to a junk yard to see if I can find some there.
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From: Virginia
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Yeah they are distinguishable. My only concern is the one wire that doesn't have a prong on male side for it to plug to from female. Female has 4 wires going in and male only has 3. So that's a bit confusing as to if it's just there to create a loop or if its jumped inside the plug.
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
Yeah they are distinguishable. My only concern is the one wire that doesn't have a prong on male side for it to plug to from female. Female has 4 wires going in and male only has 3. So that's a bit confusing as to if it's just there to create a loop or if its jumped inside the plug.
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Update time. So got a trailer plug installed as suggested. Ran voltage test again afterwards was rite at 8 volts. That didn't satisfy me it's at the bottom so I looked more as truck was running. Placed my leads across battery cable terminals showed 14.59 there so I kept them there for a few to see if I get a drop or anything. Sure enough truck started running rough for a minute long enough to see the voltage began to go crazy up and down to 6 volts. Then back to normal and truck idling fine. So I began investigating the alternator wiring harness noticed some naked wires going into the plug on alternator. So I pulled it out and began dissecting it. Found some corodded naked connections in middle under tape. So I cut and redone those sections and the plug as well. Soldered and heatshrink. Now she is running better and voltage on coil is almost 9 now. Still running rough but not as bad I can actually drive it without serious misfires and engine cutouts.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Taxachusetts
Nice find and fix!
Almost 9 VDC on the coil (when running) isn't bad at all....as long as it doesn't exceed 9.
Got her running a bit better now, so it's time to adjust the mixture with a vacuum gauge AFTER you check/set the timing.
Well done!
Almost 9 VDC on the coil (when running) isn't bad at all....as long as it doesn't exceed 9.
Got her running a bit better now, so it's time to adjust the mixture with a vacuum gauge AFTER you check/set the timing.
Well done!
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Ok so I done a doughnut gasket replacement today and boy is she purring like a kitten. Truck runs and sounds 10 times better. Still not out of the woods yet but she's getting there. So this leads to my next problem to address. I've noticed from time to time fuel will start coming out of bottom of carb. Ive removed carb and tightened bottom plate bolts thinking that was the cause but after further issues of same. I'm now thinking it floods and then does that. It's a rebuilt carb purchased a few months ago. So what could be causing that is it in fact flooding cause something in carb is sticking?
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
The float needle is probably sticking. It works just like your toilet, you have pressurized fuel going into a needle valve, and a float controls the needle valve. But dirt from a dirty fuel system will get lodged once in awhile underneath the needle and hold it open, and the carb overflows because of too much fuel in the fuel bowl. This will also cause rough running and stalling of the engine.
These trucks are getting pretty old, and most of them need a new fuel tank. I just had to replace the one on my 86 ranger because it was leaking. Took it out and the fuel filter also, and the filter was full of orange rust/crud. When I drained the last of the fuel out of the old tank into a jug, it was orange and rusty. New tanks are not very expensive.
Pull your fuel filter and see how much crud is in it.
These trucks are getting pretty old, and most of them need a new fuel tank. I just had to replace the one on my 86 ranger because it was leaking. Took it out and the fuel filter also, and the filter was full of orange rust/crud. When I drained the last of the fuel out of the old tank into a jug, it was orange and rusty. New tanks are not very expensive.
Pull your fuel filter and see how much crud is in it.