When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
have to drive all up hill to work in possible 90-100 degrees.. when I go home it’s downhill.. would this be worth it? I’m going to try it without the ball valves but just thinking ahead.. the ball valves are to bypass the thermostat to keep thetrans around 150 or so uphill in the summer... sorry for the bad scretch..thoughts?
You're overthinking this, the thermostat will do everything you need it to do. When it's cold it'll open slowly, when it's hot it'll be open. Don't make work for yourself...
I don't see what you're gaining by adding the ball valves. You show a thermostat and are adding a manually controlled thermostat to bypass the thermostat. I can't see what that accomplishes, except more work for you.
I don't see what you're gaining by adding the ball valves. You show a thermostat and are adding a manually controlled thermostat to bypass the thermostat. I can't see what that accomplishes, except more work for you.
the thought was to be able to bypass the thermostat in warmer temps so it doesn’t have to run at 180. But if the cooler actually does what it’s supposed to do I guess it is a waste of effort.. that’s why I said I was going to wait to see what it does with just the thermostat...
the thought was to be able to bypass the thermostat in warmer temps so it doesn’t have to run at 180. But if the cooler actually does what it’s supposed to do I guess it is a waste of effort.. that’s why I said I was going to wait to see what it does with just the thermostat...
180* is actually a very good transmission temperature. I see temperatures ranging from high 170's on 50-60 days to low-180's on 80* + degree days. My towing temperatures are just as consistent staying in the high 180- mid 190's depending on the grade, ambient temperature, elevation and weight I'm towing. I'm very satisfied with these temperature ranges based on what I've read and what Mark has said in countless threads...
Just to confirm 170 is a good temp? Unloaded im at 145-150 and thought that was optimal. Going to get a 6.0 cooler for summer in Florida. My friends 150 w a tuner was at 196 I said woah we have to slow down then we looked it up and 196 is a great temp for his transmission everything was well.
Thanks
Yes, I believe I have heard that 170*-180* is optimal. It's hydraulic fluid, fancy hydraulic fluid, but hydraulic fluid none the less. It's a very complicated fluid fan, the fluid being thin enough to flow properly, but not too thin due to heat, to lubricate properly is the balancing act you are trying to achieve. You can run them north of 200* when towing. I wouldn't like to see mine north of 210*-215* but they say you can go up to 220* before you need to back down. Mark may chime in here and adjust what I am saying. He is THE guru for these things having been one of the engineers on the project at Ford.
The optimal temperature for the 5R110W and older electronic transmissions is 170°F. Newer transmission like the 6R140 run hotter.'
The 5R110 and older transmissions can run as high as 220°F all day long without issues. You can go as high as 250°F for no more than a half hour at a time.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
