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1: what are safe egt limits
2:will an aftermarket inter cooler help reduce egt
3:where should a pyrometer be tapped in (already have one just wondering)
4: any mods beside the zoo dad that could help run lower egt???
heres my set up, 2001 automatic 7.3 250 with a six gun tuner stock injectors (as far as I know) and an s&b intake true straight pipe exhaust
The book says 1250 degrees for 2 minutes, but that time limit is a moving target. Once you go beyond 1250 degrees F, you are on an egg timer - but the time depends on how long the engine has been near the limit before it crosses the line. Passing a car on the flat gives a burst of heat, where passing a car while towing up a grade is heat upon heat.
Originally Posted by StrokinHer01
2:will an aftermarket inter cooler help reduce egt
Not worth it. You might maybe lower the EGTs a few degrees, but there's nothing wrong with the stock intercooler. So... if you have an engine making high EGTs, you need to find the root cause and address that.
Originally Posted by StrokinHer01
3:where should a pyrometer be tapped in (already have one just wondering)
The closer you get to the source of the fire, the more accurate your reading is. Many of us here put the sensor right on the outlet elbow of the exhaust manifold - I did right and left manifolds.
Originally Posted by StrokinHer01
4: any mods beside the zoo dad that could help run lower egt???
Tuning is the biggest cause of high EGTs, barring exhaust/boost leaks (soot is the tattle tale here). You can take a fire breathing dragon and turn it into a tow monster simply by changing tunes. I wanted a bigger tow monster, so I put in injectors that add power without adding EGTs. I have single-shots with bigger nozzles to apply fuel earlier in the piston cycle.
My high EGT's were the result of a plugged cat, I gutted it (need it for emissions) and installed a 4" turbo exhaust my EGT's dropped 200* towing in Colorado. I also rebuilt my turbo with a SPTurbo 5x5 that also seemed to help keep the temperatures down and get them to drop quicker on long climbs. I'm with Rich on the probe location however, I only installed one. I'm also pay attention to air filter if we're extremely dry and have dusty conditions I'll spend the extra $50 on a replacement filter.
3:where should a pyrometer be tapped in (already have one just wondering)
Originally Posted by Tugly
The closer you get to the source of the fire, the more accurate your reading is. Many of us here put the sensor right on the outlet elbow of the exhaust manifold - I did right and left manifolds.
My driver's side (I can only find a picture of tapping the hole):
I'll throw this out there as well, put anti seize on the threads. That way if you ever have to replace a bad egt probe you'll be glad you did it the 1st time
You may want to try using milk of magnesia or some chalk based substance on the threads it can help more in higher heat areas to let you remove stuff with threads
I'll throw this out there as well, put anti seize on the threads. That way if you ever have to replace a bad egt probe you'll be glad you did it the 1st time
This is what I used so I'll have to see if it lasts.
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