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The unit bearing on the 05+ SD 60's substantiality stronger than the 99-04 and arguably better than hub/bearing set up found on OBS axles.
Honestly you sound like you don't know what you are talking about and don't know where you are going with this or how to get there...
Originally Posted by bbf385
The unit bearing on the 05+ SD 60's substantiality stronger than the 99-04 and arguably better than hub/bearing set up found on OBS axles.
Honestly you sound like you don't know what you are talking about and don't know where you are going with this or how to get there...
ok first off if you read this whole thread I stated I was TOLD that the 10.25 was stronger then the 10.50. Never stated that it was a fact. and second while I have no personal experience with any 05’ + Dana 60 fronts I’m always seeing posts on my Facebook pages complaining about the wheel bearing failing frequently. My buddy has an 05’ F250 on 35’s and in 50,000 miles he’s done wheel bearings twice now. My 97’ F350 gasser with a ball joint Dana 60 has 150,000 with 33’s and has never needed them. Often these failures were caused by larger tires and offset which is the case in my buddies situation and most Facebook posts. This truck WILL be seeing larger then stock tires so it will have quite a bit of added stress to the bearings. Third the only part of the 4 link I’d be building is the radius arms and radius arm brackets for the frame. I may even buy a bracket if I can find one. I would buy a set of clasps so I don’t have to make the end piece that attached to the axle either. We did a triangulated 4 link on my buddies Jeep and yes that took more then a weekend. But that project involved stripping his axles and making/welding brackets to both frame AND axle along with all the geometry we had to do to put it all in the right place. Parallel 4 link is a much simpler system especially if the only part I really have to make are the arms and frame bracket. I never claimed to know exactly what I was doing but if I did I sure wouldn’t be on this site looking for input.
it is not the large tires that kills the bearings, it is the giant rims with ridiculous offset that throws the geometry of the wheel weight off kilter.
35 inch tires on stock rims bearings will last forever. those same 35 inch tires with 2 less inches of backspace to make the tires stick out farther will eat wheel bearing up in no time.
it is not the large tires that kills the bearings, it is the giant rims with ridiculous offset that throws the geometry of the wheel weight off kilter.
35 inch tires on stock rims bearings will last forever. those same 35 inch tires with 2 less inches of backspace to make the tires stick out farther will eat wheel bearing up in no time.
What style bearing are you referring to? I've logged 40,000 miles on 38"x15.5" mounted on 12" wide wheels with no issues at all. This on a king pin D60. If unit bearings can't deal with big,wide tires/wheels,I don't have any experience with them so don't know, then there's an argument about them being not as good as conventional tapered wheel bearings.
300 plus dollars per side every 200,000 miles compared to 40 dollars per side every 150,000 miles is a no brainer for me. Plus if you stay up on maintenace the conventional bearings will last longer.
. 1500 dollars to convert it back to conventional bearings is crazy. But that is just me....I'm cheap. I'e converted superduty to conventional spindles with all factory stuff. Not knocking anyone but I like cheap and strong
The 05+ unit bearings commonly do 300K or better. At that mileage I'm sure most of the truck is clapped out. That's stock application of course. They also have the added bonus of 35 spline stub shafts stock.
^^ No denying the beef there. But according to tjc transport," those same 35 inch tires with 2 less inches of backspace to make the tires stick out farther will eat wheel bearing up in no time."
So update everyone, I flew down to the Longhorn State and picked myself up a truck. I planned to drive it home but due to it having a fuel leak from either the bowl or the pump I decided I'd just ship it back instead. Not a huge deal the thing ran and drove fine otherwise and the DIY E-fuel was the first thing I planned on doing to it when I got it home anyways. Plus the fuel leak worked as a good negotiation point for me. All in all very satisfied with the purchase and believe it's a good base to start from for a truck I planned to convert to 4x4 with coil springs suspension up front. This is a truck I wish I woulda bought 3 years ago when I started my restoration project on another Crew cab long bed SRW 7.3 BUT....ya live and ya learn and I sure learned a lot thus far by working on that truck and still learning so it's all good! The truck isn't a dually but is still 2wd so a conversion will be happening to it in the future. Below is a picture of it and once I get it home I'll start a thread about it.
So also on a side note upon further research I'm not going to be doing the dynatrak Free spin kit. I've never owned an 05 and up Superduty nor have I payed all that much attention to one and after actually taking a hard look at my buddies 6.0 with manual locking hubs I have no idea what a $1500 free spin kit is doing for me on an 06' F-350 front axle when it already is a free spinning axle? For some reason I though they had to be designed differently than my 97 F350's dana 60 where the axle shafts on the 05'+ always spin even when the hubs aren't locked or something but after playing with my buddies 6.0 axle I discovered his axle shafts spin freely when hubs aren't locked so I honestly have no idea what the Dynatrak Free spin kit could be good for on a ford at a price of $1,500+. Especially after now seeing the size comparison bbf385 posted. I have 150+k logged on a ball bearing d60 which I would assume is similar in size to the king pin 60 all while on 35's and a 9" rim with no issues so since I only plan to run 35's after this conversion I think I'll be fine with the stock bearings. So yeah that's where I'm at look for the thread for further updates, thank you all!
Trucks not absolutely perfect, has the damage on the bed and a hand full of other stupid things like the dent in the rear door which I just plan on taking the door panel off and popping back out that I need to address but over all I'm very satisfied with the purchase. I planned on getting the truck painted this fall anyways so while the body may be a little rough with some questionable taste it's all there, 99% straight, and most importantly....RUST FREE. It's scary how rust free it is actually...I was blown away by just how rust free it actually was. I mean the exhaust barely had any surface rust! 100% bone stock except for the brake controller and goose neck.
I'm interested in watching this one. Do you have a build thread for it, or are you going to maintain this thread?
i haven’t started a thread for it yet but I will when I have time. I haven’t really modded it yet as I don’t have much time anymore now that I finally got the job I’ve been trying to get since high school and I’m still attempting to keep up my landscaping business at the same time. Once I have some time I’ll start a thread for it because I have big plans for this one but I doubt any will materialize any time soon.
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