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Anybody know of a cheaper way than buying adjustable drag link from Autofab if you don't already own the correct left hand and right hand threading dies?
I can buy a brand new Moog drag link for like $85, but a cheapo one is like $35, or i just cut the original one for free and buy a new one if I jack it up. Add on $15 for the adjusting sleeve and I'd have less into parts than it would cost to ship the one from Autofab (not to mention they want $300...)
Unfortunately I can buy a tie rod end already threaded for less than what a die costs. Though I would need left hand and right hand threading dies if I added the sleeve where Auto fab does.
I'm trying to get all of the purchase stuff for a 3" lift on my 76 F350 and just have the I beams bent at a local alignment shop to save on shipping and also all the alignment would be matched to my truck. Already have figured out springs.
I did the long tie rod bar on my "79 f250 4x4. All I had to do was cut the end off and thread it. The t.r.e. had the reverse threads. I got a left side collar and a left t.r.e. and now I'll never have to buy that bar again.
1.5" x.250" wall DOM tubing, Weld-in threaded inserts/bungs, Correct selection of tie-rods. I typically use the GM style tie-rods on all my steering projects for 4x4s, as they're inexpensive and readily available. However the cost will still be around 225+ for the materials and tie-rods. This may also require re-reaming the tapers in your steering arms and pitman arm. Here are some pics of some I've built, first 3 are from my 84 CJ7, full crossover-high steer, Last pic is a 92 Cherokee with Inverted-T style steering. all utilizes above mentioned DOM tubing, and GM "1-ton" tierods (used on K20, K30s)
Anybody know of a cheaper way than buying adjustable drag link from Autofab if you don't already own the correct left hand and right hand threading dies?
Though I would need left hand and right hand threading dies if I added the sleeve where Auto fab does.
I'm trying to get all of the purchase stuff for a 3" lift on my 76 F350 and just have the I beams bent at a local alignment shop to save on shipping and also all the alignment would be matched to my truck. Already have figured out springs.
I was trying to think of why you'd need left and right threads on an acutely S-shaped draglink in the first place, when I got to your comment about the I-beam bending. Then I thought I remembered Autofab as maybe being a 2wd specialty manufacturer. So this is a 2wd truck you're lifting then?
Maybe I should have known that since it's a '76 and maybe they didn't have 4wd F350's in '76 anyway? Not sure, but just so we're clear, this is a 2-wheel drive truck. Correct?
If it's a 4wd, then you're talking about one of the short s-shaped links. If so, it's not necessarily fun pulling the tapered rod end out each time you want to adjust it, but has anyone actually tried to twist the s-shaped link while both ends are still attached? Is it even possible?
Besides, when it's new and you're still messing about with steering wheel alignment, the tapers release easily anyway.
If it's the two-wheel version with the long draglink, which style does the F350 have? Is it the full cross-link of the old T-style system? Or is it the long/short Y-linkage in your case? Sorry I should probably know that, but I haven't been under many 2wd 350's so far.
Love to see pics of this thing before and after though!
Obviously, with a long straight rod, the left and right thing would make total sense. So that's what I'll plant in my mind until I hear different.
mark a. you got pics of your tie-rod setup you can post up?
My plan is to get two 1 ton Chevy TREs and a threaded adjuster sleeve which is around $20 for everything at rockauto then I’m going to get a Chevy TRE reamer to drill out mine to the same taper as the Chevys. The reamers aren’t cheap but it’s a tool you’ll have forever. On my Dana 60 I can drill out the top of the steering arm so I won’t need a drop style drag link. Hope this helps.
My plan is to get two 1 ton Chevy TREs and a threaded adjuster sleeve which is around $20 for everything at rockauto then I’m going to get a Chevy TRE reamer to drill out mine to the same taper as the Chevys. The reamers aren’t cheap but it’s a tool you’ll have forever. On my Dana 60 I can drill out the top of the steering arm so I won’t need a drop style drag link. Hope this helps.
Definitely make sure you buy a name brand reamer w/ warranty. Mine was Snap-On, which they no longer carry, but the Snap-On guy was nice enough to locate me one to replace it under warranty. I've had 1 break at the shaft, and seen a few others with the same issue. Also make sure to go slow, and constantly measure the TRE to the tapered hole, as if you go too far, you're only option is to replace the steering knuckles, or drill out with 7/8" bit, and insert a tapered sleeve, which should ideally be welded in.
Definitely make sure you buy a name brand reamer w/ warranty. Mine was Snap-On, which they no longer carry, but the Snap-On guy was nice enough to locate me one to replace it under warranty. I've had 1 break at the shaft, and seen a few others with the same issue. Also make sure to go slow, and constantly measure the TRE to the tapered hole, as if you go too far, you're only option is to replace the steering knuckles, or drill out with 7/8" bit, and insert a tapered sleeve, which should ideally be welded in.
Seems like the tapered sleeves are about $10 each. The reamer will be $60 on the low end and up to $200 on the high end.
The reamer is the best way to go but that could be a big price difference if you are only doing a few holes. If you were to do lots of trucks then the reamer would make up the cost.
Definitely make sure you buy a name brand reamer w/ warranty. Mine was Snap-On, which they no longer carry, but the Snap-On guy was nice enough to locate me one to replace it under warranty. I've had 1 break at the shaft, and seen a few others with the same issue. Also make sure to go slow, and constantly measure the TRE to the tapered hole, as if you go too far, you're only option is to replace the steering knuckles, or drill out with 7/8" bit, and insert a tapered sleeve, which should ideally be welded in.
I was just looking at the tapered sleeves for a crossover set up and was wondering if the welding was just an additional safety factor and not absolutely necessary. The sleeve I saw had a flanged head, which acted like a washer under the nut and was split top to bottom. Wouldn't they pretty much lock themselves in? Assuming you didn't drill a sloppy hole, wouldn't the taper of the tie rod spread the sleeve as it's tightened down, essentially creating a press fit? Hit them and the hole with some 36 grit before slaping it together for some extra bite. Personally, I'd still throw a few tacks on it, at least, I'm just curious. Seems like a tie rod breaking would be the only way it might come loose.
On our mud truck we used the Chevy drag links, ES2027L-----ES2026R---ES362S. But as was mentioned you have to ream the tie rod tapered hole. If I remember right we had to cut some length off the Chevy tie rods to make them a little shorter. Wa-La adjustible drag link!
This was on a F250 4x4. Not sure what you are working on. Just noticed you were working on 2wd.
Seems like the tapered sleeves are about $10 each. The reamer will be $60 on the low end and up to $200 on the high end.
The reamer is the best way to go but that could be a big price difference if you are only doing a few holes. If you were to do lots of trucks then the reamer would make up the cost.
So I’m kinda new to this but your saying you can buy tapered sleeves to put into the steering arms? What size do they need to be drilled to do this? That seems like a way cheaper option for me. Thanks
So I’m kinda new to this but your saying you can buy tapered sleeves to put into the steering arms? What size do they need to be drilled to do this? That seems like a way cheaper option for me. Thanks
Yes, you can, check out barnes4wd or ruffstuffspecialties They would require drilling out to 7/8", You'll need a quality bit though, as I've used even moderate $30 bits and they won't last passing through the steering arms.
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