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They want 3,000 for complete disassembled motor, which to me seems high when I have no idea what shape it's in.
Big 'ole fat PASS on that. You said you are going to be daily driving this truck, just rebuild yours for half that price. No need for a high horsepower engine in a daily. Remember horses are thirsty, the more you have the more gas she'll drink. Start tearing the engine down till you find the problem, then fix it. It could be as simple as a $20 head gasket. Hate to see you turn something you want into something you don't need. Then it become impractical to drive and before you know it, you are selling it because it's too expensive to own and operate. As far as stroking it to a 514, that's going to require a machine shop trip anyway, so you can double that price right off the bat.
Update, pulled spark plugs and it appears #2 has dropped valve. Spark plug is smashed and I can see valve in spark plug hole. I guess now I just pray that piston is okay🤤
Usually on over rev the intake valve gets tagged and dropped as the piston is always chasing it and out pops the valve keepers and the carnage begins to mount up. But then it has been claimed it didn't get overreved. Even if the piston look like it survived there is the chance the top on the piston has been swaged enough to pinch the top ring dropping compression if you were to ignore it and fix the top end.
Took off valve cover and all valves are still attached and all keepers in place. So at this point either a valve broke in half or it's piston. Fixing to start on removing head
May pay you to gank both heads off for a looksee. Voc instructor had a saying"If you go half way-expect half way results." That still rings in my ears, when customers want to cheap out, 53 years later.
Definitely sounds like an over revved engine, no doubt about it. The piston will most likely need replaced anyway. I'd be way more worried about the cylinder walls. Pistons, rods, and even heads are replaceable, but a scored cylinder will mean a junk block. Pull both heads for sure.
When I took out distributor it the bottom half didn't come out. I am use to old ford distributor so I haven't ever seen this. Is it suppose to be like this?
Even if you do have a banged up cylinder the block may not be trash. My 460 needed a sleeve in one hole because of a wrist pin. I think I paid around $40 for a Melling sleeve. With the sleeve and bore job I was still around $300. Even knowing which hole was bad I still had a hard time seeing the sleeve when it was done.
Your distributor: Yes, that type is made like that - the driven gear (on the distributor) fits in that slot and engages the cam drive gear. Not too bad of a set up as you're either close to the right timing or 180* off...no messing with a tooth off, etc.
If she ran ok before you yanked it, the distributor body, et al, should fit nicely in the slot. If you need to take out the driven gear, a magnet does just fine...barring any mushed teeth or twisted oil pump drive.
It almost looks like an HEI type distributor but the cap is a bit small for that..or my old eyeball ain't seeing something.
Looking at getting rid of stock intake and putting a used edlebrock performer on that a guy has for sale. Is there any issue with swapping this out? Mine has egr plate does that have to be left off or can it stay on. Also do I need to buy new intake bolts?
Looking at getting rid of stock intake and putting a used edlebrock performer on that a guy has for sale. Is there any issue with swapping this out? Mine has egr plate does that have to be left off or can it stay on. Also do I need to buy new intake bolts?
On the EGR stuff... for drivability it is best to either 1) leave it all stock or 2) re-do it all. Re-do means make sure the distributor timing curve and carb are set up and tuned for non-EGR. Running a distributor and carb set up for EGR w/o EGR can cause drivability,durability and mileage issues. EGR helps the engine resist ping or knock and also requires special carb calibrations.
