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Ok doing lots of stuff, and the dealership was right for once, I need a new engine harness. Got one from Tousley ford, and for the projects I'm working on, EVERYTHING is out. Fan and stuff in front, intake and turbo and all that on top, battery boxes and supports out. So I have GREAT access to everything. Yes I'm doing the FICM wiring too. Was going to do that anyway because when you do the oil cooler, it comes out in the process so why not. It wasn't until it was out I saw it was cracking underneath.
so, what is the best way to get the runs that go under the block? I was unsuccessful at getting the ac compressor out last summer, had to take it to the shop. I read somewhere that it can be done without taking it out but can't find that post.
Any tips appreciated. Doing it tomorrow after injectors.
Also, chaff points? Any ways to beef it up so I don't have to do it again? Heat wrap?
Bulletproofing the harness. I won’t be messing with it again!
Getting it routed
I just replaced my engine and FICM harness. I wrapped both of them with quality cloth heat tape and as I installed it I added loom and wrapped over it where chafe points would be around the fuel/oil filter and a couple other areas.
I cut the wire that goes behind the A/C compressor down to the crank sensor and pulled that nonsense out and routed my crank sensor wire around the other side and had plenty of slack. That is ridiculous having wires routed the way they were from the factory where you have wires behind the compressor and have to remove the compressor to get it in or out. I had to cut some of the clips and bolt anchors off and reposition them on the new harness because they were not on correctly or even close to where they needed to be.
I looked for similar products at NAPA and other parts stores and they only had overpriced junk. I got mine of Amazon. Three rolls is enough for both harnesses and beefing up potential wear areas. If you get silly with it like I did you may want 4 rolls. While you are on Amazon I’d buy some extra assorted harness clips and assorted loom for high wear areas too. Do it once and never need to fool with it again!
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Yes, I did an alternate route and moved that ribbed push clip that goes into a threaded hole in the block below the alternator and ran the CKP sensor wire between the negative ground cables and A/C compressor line. It’s much easier to acccess and is well out of the way of the seepentine belt.
If you remove the grounding block and positive bracket from the stud on the front if the engine, you can access that crank sensor plug. I just pushed it off with a pick. I also ran around the ac housing from the outside (wheel side, after heat wrapping) and got it plugged in. OK my friends son with smaller hands plugged it in but it is doable. Lol
Also, I don't tust any of the anchor points preattached for position, so those are all being removed and installed during assembly. Seems like a lot of work for a $700 harness but it's made in Mexico. .. I'm also cleaning all the sensors and putting dielectric grease on the fittings for future removal.