No heat
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2018
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So I uv tested my truck, because my cylinder number 4 misfire came back so I figured heater core hose leak, and it's moist, but not like a bad leak, do u guys think that could cause my no heat, and I replaced the coil pack and blew out the cylinder made sure it was dry and I still get the misfire, I also need to clean my egr/tb because I have a 401 code but I don't think that's the misfire. Thanks
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 45
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So I uv tested my truck, because my cylinder number 4 misfire came back so I figured heater core hose leak, and it's moist, but not like a bad leak, do u guys think that could cause my no heat, and I replaced the coil pack and blew out the cylinder made sure it was dry and I still get the misfire, I also need to clean my egr/tb because I have a 401 code but I don't think that's the misfire. Thanks
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,931
Likes: 180
YEs, if the heater hose leaks it can run down on #4 cylinder and cause a misfire.
Blowing out the hole and cleaning the COP, MIGHT fix the problem... It might not.. could have damaged the COP.
A leak in the heater hose will cause the upper most part of the coolant system ( heater core) to trap air.. YES, that will cause loss of heat.
Blowing out the hole and cleaning the COP, MIGHT fix the problem... It might not.. could have damaged the COP.
A leak in the heater hose will cause the upper most part of the coolant system ( heater core) to trap air.. YES, that will cause loss of heat.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,907
Likes: 143
The cooling system has to be completely leak free.
If you have a leak, especially on the heater circuit, it's air getting back in.
See my reply #9.
The pressure cap, is a two way device for a reason.
It lets air ...out... or excess coolant under pressure when the system heats to produce 15 psi, then seals so a vacuum can develop when system cools..
It then stabilizes under those conditions.
The 15 psi enables the system boiling point to increase over that of no system pressure.
You can not have any leak in or out that upsets this total operating function.
Good luck.
If you have a leak, especially on the heater circuit, it's air getting back in.
See my reply #9.
The pressure cap, is a two way device for a reason.
It lets air ...out... or excess coolant under pressure when the system heats to produce 15 psi, then seals so a vacuum can develop when system cools..
It then stabilizes under those conditions.
The 15 psi enables the system boiling point to increase over that of no system pressure.
You can not have any leak in or out that upsets this total operating function.
Good luck.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
YEs, if the heater hose leaks it can run down on #4 cylinder and cause a misfire.
Blowing out the hole and cleaning the COP, MIGHT fix the problem... It might not.. could have damaged the COP.
A leak in the heater hose will cause the upper most part of the coolant system ( heater core) to trap air.. YES, that will cause loss of heat.
Blowing out the hole and cleaning the COP, MIGHT fix the problem... It might not.. could have damaged the COP.
A leak in the heater hose will cause the upper most part of the coolant system ( heater core) to trap air.. YES, that will cause loss of heat.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
The cooling system has to be completely leak free.
If you have a leak, especially on the heater circuit, it's air getting back in.
See my reply #9.
The pressure cap, is a two way device for a reason.
It lets air ...out... or excess coolant under pressure when the system heats to produce 15 psi, then seals so a vacuum can develop when system cools..
It then stabilizes under those conditions.
The 15 psi enables the system boiling point to increase over that of no system pressure.
You can not have any leak in or out that upsets this total operating function.
Good luck.
If you have a leak, especially on the heater circuit, it's air getting back in.
See my reply #9.
The pressure cap, is a two way device for a reason.
It lets air ...out... or excess coolant under pressure when the system heats to produce 15 psi, then seals so a vacuum can develop when system cools..
It then stabilizes under those conditions.
The 15 psi enables the system boiling point to increase over that of no system pressure.
You can not have any leak in or out that upsets this total operating function.
Good luck.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Still no heat
so I replace the lines, no more leak or misfire, replaced the coolant cap, and still no heat. I don't leak coolant anyway. But it's still not building pressure and I still have no heat. By the time I figure this out it'll be summer haha. Btw it doesn't over heat like in our few 70* days up here in the north east
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,931
Likes: 180
But it's still not building pressure and I still have no heat.
where is the pressure going ? Still have an external leak... or possibly internal ? Does the level drop after 50 miles of running ?
where is the pressure going ? Still have an external leak... or possibly internal ? Does the level drop after 50 miles of running ?
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Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2018
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so it build pressure sometimes haha. I quit. I got my coolant pressure tester from work and when to go Pop the cap off(cuz ya know it hadn't been building pressure) and got a face full of coolant😂. So it can build pressure. When it wants. But anyways I still don't have heat. I know the door opens and closes. Actuators new, and I when back and forth by hand, sounded like it seals. But I guess I'm cutting a hole in the heater box to make sure the door isn't cracked. Otherwise I'm at a loss. On the bright side I've flushed it so many times messed with the lines so much my coolant looks like it came off the showroom. But the door is the only thing I can think off. I haven't felt my heater hoses in a few days. So I'll check that after the nor'easter
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