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hey guys, first thread, I've searched already, and I am a mechanic. BUT I can't get heat in my truck, I have flushed it a few times and have narrowed it down to air in my heater core. How can I get it out, I've bleed it every diy way I could think off. The heater lines are just stupidly high, but I've never had this much of an issue. Been driving it for over a month, still hasn't bleed through. It's a 2001 ecsb 4.6 4wd with 256k. Inlets got , outlets col.its been flushed until straight water comes out. Thanks
When I worked at a Nissan dealership, they had to put the front end in the air using just the front pads on the hoist to get the air out of the heater core. If you have no access to a hoist, then jacks with stands or a hill (like Lime1GT suggested) should work.
I cut the heater hose at the HIGH spot and put a TEE in the line to flush with a garden hose... Then when filling the radiator, open the TEE cap and let the air out until you see antifreeze.
I cut the heater hose at the HIGH spot and put a TEE in the line to flush with a garden hose... Then when filling the radiator, open the TEE cap and let the air out until you see antifreeze.
i has the tee but what did u do just cap it?, I can't find my cap lol. And I've already had it on ramps so I guess I need a steeper Hill haha.
Really should not have this much trouble getting air out of the heater core.
Granted it is the highest point but the feed hose is right from the water pump that forces coolant to the heater hose and should force all the air out and back to the fill bottle as bubbles.
Run the motor with the cap off the fill bottle.
Be sure the thermostat is good.
let it run until fully hot and check the heater lines.
If they are hot and the jug is at the proper fill level, put the cap on.
Later when totally cool, slowly turn the pressure cap and listen for a hiss sound indicating a vacuum had formed and air is rushing in.
If no hiss there is an air leak or the cap is no good.
The system originally worked as designed, no reason it stops working the same way unless there is a fault or your not doing what's needed to allow air to get back to the fill jug and vent out.
Most every vehicle have ever had, the heater core is above the engine level.
The water pump powers the system.
Good luck.
Really should not have this much trouble getting air out of the heater core.
Granted it is the highest point but the feed hose is right from the water pump that forces coolant to the heater hose and should force all the air out and back to the fill bottle as bubbles.
Run the motor with the cap off the fill bottle.
Be sure the thermostat is good.
let it run until fully hot and check the heater lines.
If they are hot and the jug is at the proper fill level, put the cap on.
Later when totally cool, slowly turn the pressure cap and listen for a hiss sound indicating a vacuum had formed and air is rushing in.
If no hiss there is an air leak or the cap is no good.
The system originally worked as designed, no reason it stops working the same way unless there is a fault or your not doing what's needed to allow air to get back to the fill jug and vent out.
Most every vehicle have ever had, the heater core is above the engine level.
The water pump powers the system.
Good luck.
So I uv tested my truck, because my cylinder number 4 misfire came back so I figured heater core hose leak, and it's moist, but not like a bad leak, do u guys think that could cause my no heat, and I replaced the coil pack and blew out the cylinder made sure it was dry and I still get the misfire, I also need to clean my egr/tb because I have a 401 code but I don't think that's the misfire. Thanks