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HEllo I finally was able to find the error codes for my explorer. well I think they are right. the gal that was running the machine didnt really know what she was doing. any way there were two tests that we ran they were the KOER and the KOEO tests. here are the codes that they gave
KOER = 00
KOEO = 111
10
214
I am not exactly sure what this means. my buddy is very persistnant that the 02 sensor is what is making the check engine light go on? they are only like $40 bucks I was thinking about just buying that to see what happens? it looks pretty easy to install? hope to hear from you guys.
I have a 95 ford explorer. I have been having minimal problems starting this SUV up in the morning. there have been a couple of times where I did not think it was going to start. the bigger problem is this. I will be driving any wheres from 0-15 miles and the check engine light will go on.
when the Check engine light is on it will spit and sputter a little if I am stoped and if I am stoped at a light and the light goes green and I give it some gas it will act like it wants to die. but at higher speeds I do not notice a diffrence.
You need to get a hold of a good EEC-IV diagnostic article. I've seen one posted here at FTE that was taken from Mitchell. The file was called gtest.pdf, but I don't recall the complete link to download the file. Libraries often carry the Mitchell or Motor manuals that will contain the EEC-IV diagnostic article. There are about 2 pages worth of circuit tests to help diagnose a continuous memory code 214.
I would also be concerned with how the KOER test was performed. The gal's code reader should have output a "10" at the point where the computer requests the dynamic response test (aka "goose" test) and then you should have received one or more three digit trouble codes (code 111 is a pass code). Since it sounds like part of the problem is not knowing how to perform the "quick test" (what the manual calls the process of pulling trouble codes), I would start with a little research and education. A good EEC-IV diagnostic article would be worth looking at. For quick test procedures, you could also read www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html
Striker, one question: When it's hard to start, does it crank over several revolutions and finally fire?
Or when it dosen't fire, do you turn the key off and back on until it starts? And will it always start on the second or third try, so you never have to try a fourth?
when I do have trouble starting it. it will turn over several times then fire. there have only been a couple of times where I think it was going to start and then it dies so I try again and it pops right off.
the thing that seems to be happening more frequently is when I am at a dead stop with the engine running and I hit the gas there is a hesitation there. its kind of like you will press on the pedal and it will jump a little then there is nothing then you will go after that.
I called 3 diffrent ford dealerships and told them the codes that I got from auto zone and no one wanted to help me they all said. "well we cant tell over the phone you will need to bring it in and we will have to hook it up to our machine and charge you $90 bucks just for that not to mention what it will take to fix it.
Striker, there may be more than one problem. The hesitation you describe might be from a faulty TPS (throttle position sensor). This does not coincide with the code 214, however.
You can check the TPS with a multimeter. Backprobe the center wire going to it, turn on the key, and ground the other probe. With the throttle closed you should read slightly less than 1v, and about 4+v with the throttle wide open. The transition on the voltmeter should be smooth when you open the throttle. If it is "ragged" when you initially open the throttle, the TPS is worn out.
As I said, this dosen't answer the code 214 at all, but you can do the check on the TPS in about 10 minutes, and it'll eliminate it as a possibility.
thank you for the info! I am going to try that tonight. in your opinion should I just take it to a shop and pay for the diagnostic? its only $90 and depending on what they tell me I can either take it out of there and fix it my self or I can just have it fixed there? I just dont like the idea of paying that money! know what I mean!
I know EXACTLY what you mean! I would only take it to a dealer as a last resort. The TPS is simple to diagnose and replace. The code 214 is more confusing, as it might be from several things.
One thing that comes to mind is the camshaft position sensor, which is to the rear of the engine to the right/rear of the coil pack. There are tests for it too, but it's hard to reach. It seems to fail a lot on Explorers. (It does ID the cylinders for the fuel injectors.)
I wouldn't throw parts at it though. After doing all the simple checks, and you run out of patience, then the dealer might be considered. If yours has a good service department, they'll fix it. Paying them might be cheaper in the long run, rather than replacing parts and still not having it fixed.