Tie Rod Removal Tool?
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Joined: Mar 2014
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From: Douglassville, PA
Tie Rod Removal Tool?
I need to do a tie rod and need to know what is needed to get the end out of the Pittman arm. I have a fork (think they call it a pickle fork) but my question is will beating on the fork to remove the end from the Pittman arm damage the steering box? Or do I need a puller from one of the auto stores?
Thanks,
Mark
Thanks,
Mark
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From: Lake Hartwell, GA
I would NOT use a pickle fork on the pitman arm. I have replaced 2 steering gear boxes and had great success with the following tools which I rented from AutoZone.
Tie rod to pitman arm joint
OEM puller 27016 - https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...ype/555623_0_0
Pitman arm to gear box shaft joint
OEM puller 27170 - https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...ype/209523_0_0
The first puller is too small for the output shaft joint, but that is not what you are asking about anyway. The first puller is perfect and easy to use when removing the tie rod from the pitman arm. Just use a bungee cord, zip tie or something to keep the rod from popping out and smashing your face.
EDIT: Which tie rod did you go with? I need to replace mine as well, but have been stubborn about ordering one because I cannot get the XRF by itself. I found one on 1A Auto for ~$50, but I don't think it comes with boots for the knuckles.
Tie rod to pitman arm joint
OEM puller 27016 - https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...ype/555623_0_0
Pitman arm to gear box shaft joint
OEM puller 27170 - https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...ype/209523_0_0
The first puller is too small for the output shaft joint, but that is not what you are asking about anyway. The first puller is perfect and easy to use when removing the tie rod from the pitman arm. Just use a bungee cord, zip tie or something to keep the rod from popping out and smashing your face.
EDIT: Which tie rod did you go with? I need to replace mine as well, but have been stubborn about ordering one because I cannot get the XRF by itself. I found one on 1A Auto for ~$50, but I don't think it comes with boots for the knuckles.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,766
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From: East Tawas, MI
I with Sous,
You can rent them from the auto parts place. Some are free with a deposit.
The one I had, came with an assortment of collars/collets and worked very well.
I've also had good luck just tapping with a 2lb hammer lightly on the side of the lower joint assy without the tool and having them "pop" right out.
Remember to do exact measurements across both rods to get your steering center and toe in as close as practical so you can adjust the lengths to your existing spec if all is good.
An alignment should be performed asap as well (as I'm sure your aware).
On a lighthearted note. I have used a bungee cord once. I still have the scar on my forehead.
Good luck with it. I suggest throwing your tires under the frame behind the leaves just for added measure. After my crushing lesson last year when my truck came down off the jackstands, It's now a standard practice.
Denny
You can rent them from the auto parts place. Some are free with a deposit.
The one I had, came with an assortment of collars/collets and worked very well.
I've also had good luck just tapping with a 2lb hammer lightly on the side of the lower joint assy without the tool and having them "pop" right out.
Remember to do exact measurements across both rods to get your steering center and toe in as close as practical so you can adjust the lengths to your existing spec if all is good.
An alignment should be performed asap as well (as I'm sure your aware).
On a lighthearted note. I have used a bungee cord once. I still have the scar on my forehead.
Good luck with it. I suggest throwing your tires under the frame behind the leaves just for added measure. After my crushing lesson last year when my truck came down off the jackstands, It's now a standard practice.
Denny
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: San Diego, CA
That is my recommendation also. I have only used pullers when I re-use anything or have to send it in as a core. If I don't plan on either of those then I'll channel my 16-year-old self, push the EASY button, and use a pickle fork or beat it with something heavy. 
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2014
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From: Douglassville, PA
Thanks guys, comfirms what I suspected. Sous, I got just the XRF tie rod end from MI Bearings for $27.00 + shipping. I called them to insure that I was getting the right thing. Prices for others were much higher than the total there and up into the $100+ range even.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
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From: Lake Hartwell, GA
Thanks guys, comfirms what I suspected. Sous, I got just the XRF tie rod end from MI Bearings for $27.00 + shipping. I called them to insure that I was getting the right thing. Prices for others were much higher than the total there and up into the $100+ range even.
EDIT: Just for future reference, the link to the link (see what I did there) that Mark has purchased is pasted below.
https://mibearings.com/index.php?mai...ducts_id=41925
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From: Douglassville, PA
And that connection there is the one that is used to center the steering wheel, isn't it? And if this link takes this is the XRF site. If you get the part numbers from this site MIBearings linked by Sous has all the parts and they seem to be cheap compared to other sources.
http://showmetheparts.com/xrf/
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http://showmetheparts.com/xrf/
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From: Lake Hartwell, GA
Yes, well the collar is threaded in opposite directions, so spinning the collar down with channel locks toward the front of the truck moves the steering wheel to the right (passenger side), pushing up with channel locks toward the rear of the rear moves the steering wheel to the left (driver side).
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Thread Starter
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Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2014
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From: Douglassville, PA
Yes, well the collar is threaded in opposite directions, so spinning the collar down with channel locks toward the front of the truck moves the steering wheel to the right (passenger side), pushing up with channel locks toward the rear of the rear moves the steering wheel to the left (driver side).
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From: Douglassville, PA
The XRF tie rod end came in on Tuesday and it is a direct replacement for the OEM. I measured from grease fitting to grease fitting for fitment and also counted the threads at 26. It was 1/4" shy of what I had measured at so I brought it back out to the measured distance. I was disappointed but not totally surprised to find that it was made in Taiwan. The tie rod end that I removed may not be bad at all and I need to hunt down someone who knows a good one from a bad one. I pulled the whole rod down and cleaned it up, that was a good suggestion and I highly recommend it. The connector sleeve was pretty well frozen and what wasn't too bad a job in the vise would have been a nightmare under the truck. I also wire brushed all threads and applied grease to help slow the rust. I got tuckered out and didn't adjust the steering wheel yet but I will do that tomorrow when I finish sewing up that job. For those who need to replace these things frequently...do you steer your truck while it it sitting still? I can guarantee you that doing so will shorten the life of those tie rods ends.
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Joined: May 2014
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From: Lake Hartwell, GA
Good to hear it was a direct fit. I will get one on order when we get home.
Was it painted black or raw like in the picture on the site?
When adjusting the wheel, remember DR for down is right and UL for up is left.
Was it painted black or raw like in the picture on the site?
When adjusting the wheel, remember DR for down is right and UL for up is left.
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From: Douglassville, PA
Thanks for the tip! It was painted black.
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From: San Diego, CA
I don't know the professional test but I have someone slowly turn the wheel a little bit back and forth and note how much movement there is with the tie rod before the knuckle moves (or how much the pitman arm moves before the tie rod starts to move). Not an exact science but I can tell how "loose" it's getting.
Thread Starter
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Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 10,750
Likes: 1,065
From: Douglassville, PA
I don't know the professional test but I have someone slowly turn the wheel a little bit back and forth and note how much movement there is with the tie rod before the knuckle moves (or how much the pitman arm moves before the tie rod starts to move). Not an exact science but I can tell how "loose" it's getting.
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