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Ok so I'm replacing my ball joints and have to take apart everything. I heard that if you use the pickle fork on the pitman arm and the tie rod ends that you have to replace them because of the damage the pickle for does to it.
Is there any other way or tool to use to get them off so I don't have to replace them since they aren't bad?
My truck is a 1992 F150 4X4 manual hubs w/302 and Auto trans.
If you are talking about the lower ball joints, it actually easier to replace the outer tie rod end instead. That's what I did when I replaced mine. I actually replace both the inner and outer tie rod ends because of terribly sloppy steering. That way, using the pickle fork on the pitman arm joint, I didn't have to worry about damaging anything. The outer ends are about the same price as the ball joints. Just count the threads when you remove them.
Remove the cotter pin and back the nut off to the end of the threads.
Use a large hammer and hit the pitman arm around the radius that the tie rod end is going through it. Hit it from either side and it should pop out. Having the nut in place will keep it from falling on you. Arrow shows where to strike it.
If you use the pickle fork properly, you shouldn't damage anything. But it is possible to catch the dust boot and tear it.
It's not so much that it damages the pitman arm or tie rod ends.
It 99 out of 100 times rips up the boots.
But you can get a tie rod puller. Looks like a small pitman arm puller.
That will work on the pitman arm to get it off the center link or drag link whatever you want to call it.
You will want a pitman arm puller if you are going to take it off the gear box.
Get the Pitman Arm Puller. They are about $20 at NAPA, they make the job of pulling the pitman arm really easy. If you have trouble getting the jaws of the pitman arm puller between the pitman arm and the box, loosen up your meshload and it will slip right in.
If you have trouble getting the jaws of the pitman arm puller between the pitman arm and the box, loosen up your meshload and it will slip right in.
You would be better off loosening the box from the frame a little bit. It's easy to get the sector adjustment wrong and screw up the steering box if you don't know what you're doing.
Thanks for all the help again. Took me and a friend 13.5 hours to do but we got all the ball joints done and w/o damaging any of the tie rod links. I think the ball joint press is junk(didn't work well for me), although the attachments worked well to get them out with a BFH.