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Hi Everyone,
Just in case anyone else was thinking about putting keyless door locks on their truck I just finished installing them on my 54 with stock door latches. For $25 I am really happy with how it turned out! I got both parts off Amazon:
The install was not bad at all. Remove the door latches, drill a 1/8 hole in the lock switch on the latch.. attach the door lock actuator rod to the hole... put the latch back in, screw door lock actuator to the door... wire it up and it works perfect.
I installed the Altman latches on my 52, shaved the handles, and used a similar system with door poppers in the hinge side of the door jamb. My remote will open the drivers door or the passenger door depending on which button pushed. Will not work with the key on in case the button were to be accidentally pushed. I still need to figure out a hidden mechanical emergency way to open in case of a dead battery, but they work great.
I installed the Altman latches on my 52, shaved the handles, and used a similar system with door poppers in the hinge side of the door jamb. My remote will open the drivers door or the passenger door depending on which button pushed. Will not work with the key on in case the button were to be accidentally pushed. I still need to figure out a hidden mechanical emergency way to open in case of a dead battery, but they work great.
Just another theft deterrent.
I can't help with Altman latches. I modified and used my original F-1 latches. I have a hidden rod (ss weld wire that is vertically in the passenger door). I have a small loop on the bottom of the rod. I did drill a small hole in the bottom of the door out of sight. Pulling on the rod will unlock the door. I also modified the original lock so that I can lock and unlock with the original key. Unfortunately I do not have detailed pictures. The time to make it all work because of trying to keep the key function was excessive.
I can't help with Altman latches. I modified and used my original F-1 latches. I have a hidden rod (ss weld wire that is vertically in the passenger door). I have a small loop on the bottom of the rod. I did drill a small hole in the bottom of the door out of sight. Pulling on the rod will unlock the door. I also modified the original lock so that I can lock and unlock with the original key. Unfortunately I do not have detailed pictures. The time to make it all work because of trying to keep the key function was excessive.
Great idea with the SS rod, I was thinking of cable in the same place but worried about it curling and catching the door popper actuator cable. It will work with the Altman latches too. Thanks Pete!
Hey cal1319, received the remote door locks and trying to figure out the wiring, like you said, it's a bit confusing. I'm not using red/brn/grn/blu as those indicate other features than lock/unlock. It appears that orange & orange/blk are not connected, if that's what N C means. So, that leaves WHT, YELLOW, WHT/BLK, & YELLOW/BLK. No combination of these will activate the lock/unlock mechanism. When I put 12v to the actuator, it operates OK. I found the J1 but not the J2, but nothing you can do with that, anyway. I located the learning button, SW1, and it seems to be operating a switch in the control unit, a clicking sound. So now I' picking your brain for a solution.
Thanks in advance for your help,
Jay Daggett
Hi Jay,
Ill try and help you out.. and it may sounds weird but you have to wire it like this:
Orange and Orange/black go to ground (just tie together to ground)
Yellow and Yellow/Black go to 12v + (same as the ground, tie together then to 12v +)
White and white/black go to the actuators (you will have to test to see if you have them opening/closing correctly, if its reversed (opening when you press lock) then just switch the wires)
--- Just so this make sense you will have one wire from your right and left door actuator (lets say the green wire) tied into the white wire and then the blue from both the right and left actuator tied into the white/black wire
------ like I mentioned above, if green to white is making the actuator close instead of open then you just have to switch it so that green is going to white/black and blue to white...
You also will have a black (ground) and (red) 12v + from the reciever box that also must be hooked up!
Hope I didnt confuse you more, if your still having issues I can draw out a schematic for you when Im out of lab.
Oh I just remembered that you have to hook up the red 12V + and the yellow yellow/black 12V + to their own 12v + constant source, I tried to wire them all the together and for whatever the reason it would not work!