$25 keyless door lock
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New User
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 20
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From: West Sacramento, CA
$25 keyless door lock
Hi Everyone,
Just in case anyone else was thinking about putting keyless door locks on their truck I just finished installing them on my 54 with stock door latches. For $25 I am really happy with how it turned out! I got both parts off Amazon:
http://a.co/5xX6p4j
http://a.co/8v22Ck1
The install was not bad at all. Remove the door latches, drill a 1/8 hole in the lock switch on the latch.. attach the door lock actuator rod to the hole... put the latch back in, screw door lock actuator to the door... wire it up and it works perfect.
Just in case anyone else was thinking about putting keyless door locks on their truck I just finished installing them on my 54 with stock door latches. For $25 I am really happy with how it turned out! I got both parts off Amazon:
http://a.co/5xX6p4j
http://a.co/8v22Ck1
The install was not bad at all. Remove the door latches, drill a 1/8 hole in the lock switch on the latch.. attach the door lock actuator rod to the hole... put the latch back in, screw door lock actuator to the door... wire it up and it works perfect.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,222
Likes: 6
From: Houston
I installed the Altman latches on my 52, shaved the handles, and used a similar system with door poppers in the hinge side of the door jamb. My remote will open the drivers door or the passenger door depending on which button pushed. Will not work with the key on in case the button were to be accidentally pushed. I still need to figure out a hidden mechanical emergency way to open in case of a dead battery, but they work great.
Just another theft deterrent.
Just another theft deterrent.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,338
Likes: 167
From: Harpswell Maine
I installed the Altman latches on my 52, shaved the handles, and used a similar system with door poppers in the hinge side of the door jamb. My remote will open the drivers door or the passenger door depending on which button pushed. Will not work with the key on in case the button were to be accidentally pushed. I still need to figure out a hidden mechanical emergency way to open in case of a dead battery, but they work great.
Just another theft deterrent.
Just another theft deterrent.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,222
Likes: 6
From: Houston
I can't help with Altman latches. I modified and used my original F-1 latches. I have a hidden rod (ss weld wire that is vertically in the passenger door). I have a small loop on the bottom of the rod. I did drill a small hole in the bottom of the door out of sight. Pulling on the rod will unlock the door. I also modified the original lock so that I can lock and unlock with the original key. Unfortunately I do not have detailed pictures. The time to make it all work because of trying to keep the key function was excessive.
Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 91
Likes: 2
From: Prescott, Arizona
cal1319, thanks for sharing your "net" find and the pics. I'll let you know if I need help with the wiring, I'll see when the stuff gets here.
Jay
Jay
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Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 91
Likes: 2
From: Prescott, Arizona
jays '56 f-100
Hey cal1319, received the remote door locks and trying to figure out the wiring, like you said, it's a bit confusing. I'm not using red/brn/grn/blu as those indicate other features than lock/unlock. It appears that orange & orange/blk are not connected, if that's what N C means. So, that leaves WHT, YELLOW, WHT/BLK, & YELLOW/BLK. No combination of these will activate the lock/unlock mechanism. When I put 12v to the actuator, it operates OK. I found the J1 but not the J2, but nothing you can do with that, anyway. I located the learning button, SW1, and it seems to be operating a switch in the control unit, a clicking sound. So now I' picking your brain for a solution.
Thanks in advance for your help,
Jay Daggett
Thanks in advance for your help,
Jay Daggett
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New User
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: West Sacramento, CA
Hi Jay,
Ill try and help you out.. and it may sounds weird but you have to wire it like this:
Orange and Orange/black go to ground (just tie together to ground)
Yellow and Yellow/Black go to 12v + (same as the ground, tie together then to 12v +)
White and white/black go to the actuators (you will have to test to see if you have them opening/closing correctly, if its reversed (opening when you press lock) then just switch the wires)
--- Just so this make sense you will have one wire from your right and left door actuator (lets say the green wire) tied into the white wire and then the blue from both the right and left actuator tied into the white/black wire
------ like I mentioned above, if green to white is making the actuator close instead of open then you just have to switch it so that green is going to white/black and blue to white...
You also will have a black (ground) and (red) 12v + from the reciever box that also must be hooked up!
Hope I didnt confuse you more, if your still having issues I can draw out a schematic for you when Im out of lab.
Oh I just remembered that you have to hook up the red 12V + and the yellow yellow/black 12V + to their own 12v + constant source, I tried to wire them all the together and for whatever the reason it would not work!
Ill try and help you out.. and it may sounds weird but you have to wire it like this:
Orange and Orange/black go to ground (just tie together to ground)
Yellow and Yellow/Black go to 12v + (same as the ground, tie together then to 12v +)
White and white/black go to the actuators (you will have to test to see if you have them opening/closing correctly, if its reversed (opening when you press lock) then just switch the wires)
--- Just so this make sense you will have one wire from your right and left door actuator (lets say the green wire) tied into the white wire and then the blue from both the right and left actuator tied into the white/black wire
------ like I mentioned above, if green to white is making the actuator close instead of open then you just have to switch it so that green is going to white/black and blue to white...
You also will have a black (ground) and (red) 12v + from the reciever box that also must be hooked up!
Hope I didnt confuse you more, if your still having issues I can draw out a schematic for you when Im out of lab.
Oh I just remembered that you have to hook up the red 12V + and the yellow yellow/black 12V + to their own 12v + constant source, I tried to wire them all the together and for whatever the reason it would not work!
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