Fuel pump
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2018
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Fuel pump
Hey everyone.
So I just snagged a 79 F250 ranger lariat. In looking over it mor in depth I found the previous owner installed an after market electric fuel pump. Now it is a 460 with a 4b carb engine. Would it be smart to go back to the mechanical fuel pump? Also I found the truck has an issue with starting after it has been warmed up. I’m going to change the fuel filter and I have to tweak the idle a bit but would the fuel pump be to blame for the non start? It starts after I add a little fuel straight into the carb. Any ideas?
So I just snagged a 79 F250 ranger lariat. In looking over it mor in depth I found the previous owner installed an after market electric fuel pump. Now it is a 460 with a 4b carb engine. Would it be smart to go back to the mechanical fuel pump? Also I found the truck has an issue with starting after it has been warmed up. I’m going to change the fuel filter and I have to tweak the idle a bit but would the fuel pump be to blame for the non start? It starts after I add a little fuel straight into the carb. Any ideas?
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 68
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From: AL
I am running am edelbrock electric fuel pump on my 76 F100 with a 400/C6 and it does just fine, I do recommend double checking the wiring and ground for the fuel pump, as well as adding a switch in the cab to turn it on and off rather than just the key, its anti-theft and helps when youre messing with different things when you have the key on.
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Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,135
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
That looks like a glass take apart and clean type filter. I understand that its better to have an elec pump way closer to the fuel source, like back by the tank versus right by the carb on top of the intake manifold.
I believe I am correct in saying your elec pump is in the far R/H side of the pic? Electric pumps push fuel better than they suck fuel. http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/...fuel-pump.html
X2 on could be a fuel boil/heat soak issue causing it to be hard to start when warm?
I believe I am correct in saying your elec pump is in the far R/H side of the pic? Electric pumps push fuel better than they suck fuel. http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/...fuel-pump.html
X2 on could be a fuel boil/heat soak issue causing it to be hard to start when warm?
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Joined: Jan 2016
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From: AL
I believe I am correct in saying your elec pump is in the far R/H side of the pic? Electric pumps push fuel better than they suck fuel. Electric Fuel Pump: How to Do It Right
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2018
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No no the electric pump is actually mounted on the fuel tank.
That looks like a glass take apart and clean type filter. I understand that its better to have an elec pump way closer to the fuel source, like back by the tank versus right by the carb on top of the intake manifold.
I believe I am correct in saying your elec pump is in the far R/H side of the pic? Electric pumps push fuel better than they suck fuel. Electric Fuel Pump: How to Do It Right
X2 on could be a fuel boil/heat soak issue causing it to be hard to start when warm?
I believe I am correct in saying your elec pump is in the far R/H side of the pic? Electric pumps push fuel better than they suck fuel. Electric Fuel Pump: How to Do It Right
X2 on could be a fuel boil/heat soak issue causing it to be hard to start when warm?
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 357
Likes: 11
From: Roanoke, VA
I agree with going through the carb. I'm a personal fan of elec. pumps. I can get in my 78, which runs a Carter Rotary Vane pump by the fuel tank, and fire it up as quickly as any of my newer EFI vehicles. But that also has a lot to do with a completely overhauled carb, and fresh tune-up.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 307
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From: Isla de Muerta
Lots'o things to consider/trouble shoot...
Have you verified that the choke is set and operating correctly?
Have you verified that the timing is correct?
How old is that carburetor, has it ever been rebuilt?
Have the filter(s), soft rubber fuel lines been replaced recently?
What's the fuel pressure set at?
How good are all of you main electrical components, are all of your grounds hooked up solid?
You might want to address that throttle cable/transmission kickdown set up, it's not correct.
The part you need is the Edelbrock 1483 throttle lever adapter
LINK
Here's what it should look like when set up, the throttle cable ball stud is missing in this pic.
In this pic shows the kick down rod attached to the linkage by an extension piece, which you can also buy if needed.
Have you verified that the choke is set and operating correctly?
Have you verified that the timing is correct?
How old is that carburetor, has it ever been rebuilt?
Have the filter(s), soft rubber fuel lines been replaced recently?
What's the fuel pressure set at?
How good are all of you main electrical components, are all of your grounds hooked up solid?
You might want to address that throttle cable/transmission kickdown set up, it's not correct.
The part you need is the Edelbrock 1483 throttle lever adapter
LINK
Here's what it should look like when set up, the throttle cable ball stud is missing in this pic.
In this pic shows the kick down rod attached to the linkage by an extension piece, which you can also buy if needed.
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2018
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Awesome advice! So I found the idle adjustments were way off and temporarily moved the fuel filter along with cleaning it out. And that seemed to do the trick well for now... I will most likely be taking the carb off and cleaning it up along with fixing the linkage you had mentioned. I will be documenting my progress through YouTube and I’ll comment the page later. Again thanks y’all for the great advice. Let me know if you notice anything else I should look at.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2013
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From: Isla de Muerta
Another thing I'd look at on your carb, why is the accelerator pump linkage set
at the weakest pump stroke?
From the factory, Edelbrock sets the accelerator pump linkage to the middle hole of the linkage.
Need more gas? Move rod up a hole.
Less gas, move the rod down to the bottom hole.
Often times, guys will mess with the accelerator pump linkage in an attempt to "tune out" a stumble/hesitation between cruise/wide open throttle.
If you plan on rebuilding the carb (it's easy peasy) verify what all internal components (jets/rods/springs) are, stock/+1, -1, etc.
It'd be best (from a tuning aspect) to set up the carb as built from Edelbrock and go from there.
If you don't have this already, download it.
Edelbrock owners manual
Also, verify that all of your vacuum lines are hooked up as needed.
Vacuum advance for the distributor, PCV, etc.
at the weakest pump stroke?
From the factory, Edelbrock sets the accelerator pump linkage to the middle hole of the linkage.
Need more gas? Move rod up a hole.
Less gas, move the rod down to the bottom hole.
Often times, guys will mess with the accelerator pump linkage in an attempt to "tune out" a stumble/hesitation between cruise/wide open throttle.
If you plan on rebuilding the carb (it's easy peasy) verify what all internal components (jets/rods/springs) are, stock/+1, -1, etc.
It'd be best (from a tuning aspect) to set up the carb as built from Edelbrock and go from there.
If you don't have this already, download it.
Edelbrock owners manual
Also, verify that all of your vacuum lines are hooked up as needed.
Vacuum advance for the distributor, PCV, etc.
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