Dual alternator pin out
#16
I'm not sure. The recommendation I received from the shop (and the tag attached to the bolt) was to run a cable from the case to the negative terminal of the battery. Since I have dual alternators I ran a ground cable from the each alternator to the closest battery so each battery is directly "attached" to one alternator case.
#17
Grounding bolt through the air intake plenum - can you be more specific?
Like Brian, I bought a QuickStart alternator and it came with a bolt on the rear of the case for an additional negative cable to be run to the battery terminal.
I should have some "finished" pictures up on this thread tonight. I will be sure to get a couple close up shots of the negative cable too.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...energized.html
#18
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
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(Link to the post if anyone is curious: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post17190443 )
This bright new stud on the front of the new Riff Raff driver side intake plenum (near the orange glove). It is the original grounding location for the AIH. When I removed it, I used the cable and took the AIH end and put it on the Alternator mounting bolt.
Thought I was being clever, maybe not?
#19
I'm having the same issue
The Alternator (Open Loop) will not activate the Voltage Regulator unless the Circuit is competed (closed loop). There are three pins on an isolated Alternator.
(+), (-), and (F).
The Dash Lamp (which has its own fuse), goes off when when the circuit with a Diode is energized, closing the Field Circuit, which, in turn, closes the Voltage Regulator sending Electricity to the Vehicle and Batteries.
I still am looking for the Connection Di gram. You will have to cut/splice two wires for the Second Alternator or the Primary will not allow current to flow from the (B+) Post
If you look at the Schematics (earlier post), you will see the Lamp Indicator and wiring.
Keys, Long Story Short: I had a Job that payed $600. When I was done, it cost me $1,200 from my Pay Check.
(+), (-), and (F).
The Dash Lamp (which has its own fuse), goes off when when the circuit with a Diode is energized, closing the Field Circuit, which, in turn, closes the Voltage Regulator sending Electricity to the Vehicle and Batteries.
I still am looking for the Connection Di gram. You will have to cut/splice two wires for the Second Alternator or the Primary will not allow current to flow from the (B+) Post
If you look at the Schematics (earlier post), you will see the Lamp Indicator and wiring.
Keys, Long Story Short: I had a Job that payed $600. When I was done, it cost me $1,200 from my Pay Check.
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