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1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

jump start battery polarity error

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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 09:45 AM
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jump start battery polarity error

02 ranger. After setting for a month the battery went dead in the truck, so my sun used jump cables to start the truck but in error he connected the cables terminals in reverse. the next day I charge the battery with a auto charger to "full". I took a voltage reading on the battery (engine off) and get 12.2 then I started the engine and still get 12.1/12.2 I assume if the alt is working i should get about 14 volts even with a full battery, now im thinking we eather damaged the alternator or is there a blown fuse protection for the alternator. I could drive the car until something happens but it the altornator is not working and the battery drains I could get stranded. anybody got some ideas?
 
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 09:57 AM
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ususally alternator diodes fail first. but if you have to low voltage your alternator is really damaged. Pull it and take apart to test diodes with AVO meter. No protection in alternator, really no. Disconnect IVR connector from alternator and chek have you 12 V when ign is on? if yes, wiring is ok and nothing was damaged. Then check thick wires from + terminal to alternator. Ford used to install fuse link in this wire. If it is good, you may have bad diodes ore toasted IVR. I use to change IVR with alternator in truck, but if it does not solve problem remove alternator and check diodes.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 10:20 AM
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what is the IVR?
 
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 10:43 AM
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Internal Voltage Regulator
 
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 10:47 AM
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Unfortuntly I cant find diodes in catalogue... they sale remanufacted alternators only. where do they get diodes to repare toasted alternators?
 
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 10:56 AM
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that was my next question . . . where do you get diodes?
 
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 11:10 AM
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on JYs.... LOL! Ususally diodes fail first.... but to be sure check battery-alternator wire and +12V on IVR connector. If they are OK remove alternator and disassembly it to check diodes.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 11:14 AM
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witch wire do i ck on the ivr, how do i know which wire on the alt is for the ivr and once i find it and disconnect it should i ck for 12v from the wire end or from the ivr connector ( with ing on)?
 
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 11:34 AM
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I got 12v on the heavy wire so im good there. the ivr connectors are marked A S I on the reg. where should i get 12v from (which end, wire or connector on ivr) and which line the A or the S or the I ?
 
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by donaldm
I got 12v on the heavy wire so im good there. the ivr connectors are marked A S I on the reg. where should i get 12v from (which end, wire or connector on ivr) and which line the A or the S or the I ?
You Should have 12v on all three with the ignition switch in the run positioin.You cannot replace the diodes.you will have to replace the entire rectifier.unless you are real familair with the internals of an alternator I would recommend taking it to a rebuild shop or buying a replacement unit.I have folks come into my shop wanting to buy parts so they can "fix-it"themselves.generally they do more damage trying to fix it then it would of costed to have it repaired in the first place.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 12:55 PM
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i have 12v on all three. i guess the retifier is a complete assemble of all diodes so i see what you mean. i dont like to buy a rebuilt/exchange ive had bad luck. is it cheeper to have mine rebuild ? (autozone is about $150 lifetime)
 
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 03:54 PM
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look! you are really lucj\ky! I used to repare many controll units (especially on Volvo/Renault/Mack trucks) when someone install batteries wrong.... usually I had toasted LMs (voltage regulators), diodes and MOSFETs inside controll units + bad retifier... IVRs fail rarelly, but the last time I got alternatoe with toasted D+ terminal....

well, there is common 3 phase retifier inside alternator (6 diodes on two coolers) and to test them you have to desolder it out... coils have low resistance, about 2-6 ohm... you should have all six diodes good, else change bad diode ore retifier. I ususally change IVR, becouse it is a minute deal, and if it does not help I take alternator apart to look for other problem
 
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by donaldm
i have 12v on all three. i guess the retifier is a complete assemble of all diodes so i see what you mean. i dont like to buy a rebuilt/exchange ive had bad luck. is it cheeper to have mine rebuild ? (autozone is about $150 lifetime)
We generally rebuild units like the one on your truck for $79.95. if you can find a shop in your area it should be around same money.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2009 | 08:56 AM
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Seeing as how the alternator isn't outputting, check the underhood power distribution box alternator regulator fuse. In my 99 model it's position #14 & is a 30 amp fuse, it may be different for your 02 model, so check your owners manual for it's location & size.

BTW, 12.1-12.2 volts output from the battery, indicates it's only between 50-60% state of charge!!!
 
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Old Jul 13, 2009 | 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by donaldm
i have 12v on all three.
So I think fuse is OK, becouse 12V on all three pins
 
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