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Does my tensioner have the same square hole as this photo?It should, but some aftermarket replacements do not.
Does Autozone, etc. have this tool to rent or do I have to buy a Ford tool? There is another tool available via Amaozn that I use. You can also make one out of thin flat stock if you have metal and a welder available. See quoted post below.
How I remove the electrical connections to the back of the alternator? Squeeze? Do I do this before I unbolt the alternator or after? B+ wire is a bolt, for the love of God don't over-torque it or it'll snap right off. The spec is something like 22 INCH-pounds, aka snug with a 3" 1/4" drive ratchet. That's a live wire, so either tape it off or insulate it somehow. I think the wiring connector itself is just a normal squeeze and pull, but I use a pick on all of those anyways.
I plan on replacing the fuel filter as it's in plain view and easily accessible.Don't use the square in the cap, use a 24mm socket, you might crack the cap.
Is the EGR easy to remove and clean? I heard that some people leave it unplugged as an alternative to EGR delete. Yeah it's not hard to pop out, you need a seal kit though to re-install. Methods vary but I've always been able to twist them up enough to get a very thin pry bar under an ear and pop it out.
Removing everything was really easy. I should have done this when I replaced my fuel filter and blue spring upgrade!
EDIT: Didn't see Mike beat me..... answers are surprisingly similar though
This part is the key. I add a short 1/2" drive wobble extension to the smaller bar. It's got a smaller nose so it's easier to get into the square hole on the tensioner. Like this but I didn't buy a set, just picked one off the shelf. https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-64...bble+extension
Senior Master Tech uses the ratcheting gear wrench one, it's got a plug that if you have small hands you can stick into the tensioner then get the wrench on it: https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-36...er+gear+wrench
https://www.iprresearch.com/IPR-EGR-...nal-VT365.html
If you leave the EGR valve plugged in, this will act as a "delete" without removing the cooler. Leaving the OEM valve in place unplugged doesn't address the ruptured cooler concern since fluid will still pass the valve, which can be forced open by exhaust back pressure. This plug seals with rings and will do a better job mitigating a blown cooler, although if you see coolant in the exhaust you need to dig in FAST.
https://www.iprresearch.com/IPR-EGR-...nal-VT365.html
If you leave the EGR valve plugged in, this will act as a "delete" without removing the cooler. Leaving the OEM valve in place unplugged doesn't address the ruptured cooler concern since fluid will still pass the valve, which can be forced open by exhaust back pressure. This plug seals with rings and will do a better job mitigating a blown cooler, although if you see coolant in the exhaust you need to dig in FAST.
This is a slick device! I bought the coolant filter from IPR. After Vince replaced the manual shut off valves for free, it works great. Keeps my coolant clean and it's easy to service.
"Just to change OP's "Step 3" (he won't mind, he hasn't been back since 2011 ) of actually leveraging on the belt tensioner with a breaker bar and trying to set the kickstand at the same time.... just grab the belt with both hands and heave it up and off the alternator, use one of those cheap spring clamps to take the slack out of the belt if you're worried about it flopping around. At the end either reach down and set the kickstand, or just heave the belt back on to the alternator."
I can heave the belt over the alternator. Not sure if I can set the kickstand to get the belt back in.
If I pull the tensioner back far enough, does it go automatically into the "kickstand on" position? It will be nice to get the kickstand on. However, with everything buried, I may not be able to get the kickstand off.
Tensioner kickstand on.
I have the slightly used rebuilt Ford 140 amp alternator ready to go. I am also contemplating going with a new Bosche 135 amp alternator from Amazon.
Many folks on this forum exchange the larger diameter pulley for a smaller
If I pull the tensioner back far enough, does it go automatically into the "kickstand on" position? It will be nice to get the kickstand on. However, with everything buried, I may not be able to get the kickstand off.
Many folks on this forum exchange the larger diameter pulley for a smaller over drive pulley to put out more amps at idle. How do I remove the pulley?
The kickstand automatically UN-locks. So no, it won't set itself. But when it's set all the takes is a quick pop and it unlocks and puts tension on the belt (keep your fingers out of pinch points when you pop it). I wrote the "heave the belt on and off" about an F-Series, you can kneel on the radiator brace and it's basically like lifting a kettle bell, but there's a ton more room than an E-Series.
You remove the pulley with an impact. You can replace it the same way, but I guess the "right" way is to use a passthru socket and hold the stem with a hex key: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post17386166
https://www.iprresearch.com/IPR-EGR-...nal-VT365.html
If you leave the EGR valve plugged in, this will act as a "delete" without removing the cooler. Leaving the OEM valve in place unplugged doesn't address the ruptured cooler concern since fluid will still pass the valve, which can be forced open by exhaust back pressure. This plug seals with rings and will do a better job mitigating a blown cooler, although if you see coolant in the exhaust you need to dig in FAST.
Doe this EGR bypass accomplish the same thing as the IPR research plug?
The IPR bypass plug has a real "plug" The other unit is a plate.
Removing everything was really easy. I should have done this when I replaced my fuel filter and blue spring upgrade! We are working on an E-Series, right? How did you manage to do the "blue spring" update if you are unfamiliar as you say are, with the questions you are asking?
.
Are you wondering how I replaced the blue spring and fuel filter without knowing anything about the 6.0 wedged inside the E Series van?
It was over 2 years ago. This was my first time getting inside the belly of the beast.
I smelled a diesel fuel leak and unbolted the cover for the fuel spring. I hardly removed anything. I got lucky! Like I said, I should have removed more stuff. I am fortunate that I did not lose anything.
Now that I have so much stuff removed, I may remove the fan and fan stator to get even more room. I am doing the alternator remove and replace as a learning experience. I travel in remote areas and don't want to get stuck because an alternator or serpentine belt failed.
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