Hello everyone! I am new here! I must replace an alternator on my ford e450 Superduty 6.0L and I was wondering if there is any page or video on the internet to guide me on how to do it?

Also, another question, is this the alternator on my Ford? (go to 00:14)


Thanks for the help in advance.

 

In answer to your question, yes the vehicle depicted in the video you've posted is identical to the vehicle in your description.


In answer to your question regarding "how" to change the alternator on your van will be more difficult to describe than to do the actual job itself. It's been MANY years since I've been into an E-Series 6.0L (THANK GOD) so my memory may be a little fuzzy. The biggest time saver is NOT to remove the drive belt itself, but rather to release the tension from the drive belt itself. Scroll down to post #4 of this thread:


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...placement.html


If you look at texastech_diesel's second and third photo's titled "Kickstand OFF" and "Kickstand ON", you will understand the position your belt tensioner needs to be in, during alternator removal/replacement.


To give you better access to your work area though, the article below will direct you on how to remove the wire harness loom out of your way:


6.0L E-Series Fuel Filter Removal - DTS Articles - Diesel Technician Society


Once you've followed the steps outlined above, there's simply the hot side CAC pipe and metal bracket that attaches to the alternator on one end and the cold side air intake elbow on the other end to contend with. After that, it's simply the three 15mm fasteners that secure the alternator to the intake manifold and you're there.

 

Small question, the threads you linked are for "6.0 Powerstroke". Is my ford considered a "6.0 Powerstroke"? I am asking just for the future when I search online I want to know what to search for, what type of truck/engine do I have? What is it called? Here is the VIN number: 1FDXE45P04HA89231


Also, I will probably be changing the fuel filter at the same time as the alternator, but I noticed in the video, it says "Secondary filter". Does that mean there is another filter? And could you tell me where it is located?

Last question, I have the "Water in fuel" Error on my dash board. I have seen online you must drain the "water and fuel filter". Could you tell me where that drain plug is located ?

Thanks a LOT. You have no idea how much you've helped me. I will post the alternator results in a couple of days.

 

YES, your truck IS equipped with the 6.0L Powerstroke Diesel.


Yes, the filter in the engine compartment is called the secondary fuel filter meaning there are TWO. The primary fuel filter is housed within what is called the "Fuel Conditioning Module". In plain English, this part houses the primary fuel filter, pumps fuel from the fuel tank to supply it to the secondary fuel filter housing, and separates water as well as contains the water-in-fuel sensor. This part is located on the driver side of the framerail adjacent to the transmission, very close to where the oil filter housing is situated. When you purchase a fuel filter kit, it comes with BOTH fuel filters. The Ford/Motorcraft part number is FD-4606 for the two filters.

The WIF drain plug is located on the bottom cap of the aforementioned fuel conditioning module. It must be drained anyways, prior to changing the primary fuel filter as mentioned above. The cap also contains the WIF sensor.

 

Thanks for the answer. I'm about to start working on the alternator. Do I have to remove this part in order to replace the alternator?

thanks

 

Yes. As well as the metal bracket fastened to it and the intake elbow.

 

Is this the intake elbow? (ive circled it in green)

thanks

 

That's a radiator hose

 

Could you tell me which is the intake elbow?

Thank you

 

It's this part with the bolt circled in red going through it:

Give me like 5 mins and i'll try to dig up a video link

 

Staring at 4:10 he removes the CAC tube (that's the one with insulation wrapped around it you had red arrows pointing to). I didn't catch him taking the bracket apart, but I was skipping through it fast. Loosen the boot clamps on each end of the tube and the bolt still holding it in should be pretty straightforward to find.

Intake elbow is shown at 6:10, removal is at 6:45. Four bolts and a rubber gasket, don't lose the gasket if it sticks to the elbow when you pull it out.

The belt tensioner shows up at 8:45 in the bottom left hand corner. Pics in the other thread show you how to put a 1/2" drive brekaer bar into the square hole, and how to set the kickstand to keep the belt tension off if you can't just lift it off the alternator pulley. I use a pair of thin rods with square drives on them to get to the tensioner:


Alternator has three bolts holding it down, one wiring connector, and a B+ wire to disconnect. Don't short the wire to anything (ie disconnect your battery grounds and insulate them) and don't break that stud on the back of the alternator when you put the new one in, the spec is 71 in-lb, aka snug with a short 1/4" ratchet.

 

Thanks for the replies. I've replaced the alternator successfuly but unfortunately I think that wasn't the problem. I'm jumping the truck using another truck, and while the truck is running, I'm testing the alternator voltage and it's not giving me any voltage. Any idea on what's going on?

Thanks

 

What were the symptoms that led to the alternator replacement in the first place? For what it's worth, both batteries are enclosed in a plastic storage box, mounted on the passenger side framerail on this vehicle so testing for battery power is a little more difficult due to lack of quick and easy access to the batteries.


Something else to consider. You will obtain incorrect or false charging system readings if you attempt to check it after engine startup. The glow plug control remains energized even after initial engine startup for as long as a minute, depending on how cold the ambient temperature is. Once the glow plug control turns off, is when the charging system kicks in, and when it's time to check for system voltage.

 

What are you touching with the DVM? "No voltage" as in your meter literally reads 0V, or you're seeing something in the 9-12V range from the batteries and just aren't seeing a charging voltage of 13-14V?

 

I was driving on the highway and suddenly my truck stops working. I called my brother, he came, we used jumper cables to boost the truck, I drove it 2 minutes and it turned off again. Finally, i jump started it again just to get to my store and it turned off again. Thank god I was able to drive it off the highway.


Yes I've waited 2 minutes before checking voltage.


My meter literally reads 0V.

I'm touching this: