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You could have a dead alt out of the box, did the store bench test it before you took it home? And what does each battery float at, and can you load test them? You can get a pile tester like this for cheap at Wal Mart: https://www.walmart.com/ip/BATTERY-L...0-AMP/21642133
You could have a dead alt out of the box, did the store bench test it before you took it home? And what does each battery float at, and can you load test them? You can get a pile tester like this for cheap at Wal Mart: https://www.walmart.com/ip/BATTERY-L...0-AMP/21642133
I did indeed have a dead alt out of the box. Tomorow I'm getting a replacement. Will let you know how it goes. Thanks for the help.
I finally was able to change the alternator. It went very smooth and very easy. I found out that the problem was not the alternator. it was the red cable that connects on the alternator. It was not giving any power. So what I did was put a cable from the alternator all the positive terminal on the battery. My truck works wonderfully now!
Thanks for the help, I really really appreciate it. I saved a lot of money by not towing my truck to the garage and paying a lot of money.
To the new guy changing his alternator: please make sure the problem is your alternator before doing ANYTHING. It may be something else! It may be the connection.
I finally was able to change the alternator. It went very smooth and very easy. I found out that the problem was not the alternator. it was the red cable that connects on the alternator. It was not giving any power. So what I did was put a cable from the alternator all the positive terminal on the battery. My truck works wonderfully now!
Thanks for the help, I really really appreciate it. I saved a lot of money by not towing my truck to the garage and paying a lot of money.
To the new guy changing his alternator: please make sure the problem is your alternator before doing ANYTHING. It may be something else! It may be the connection.
My situation is a little different. The alternator works. No issues. My batteries finally stopped holding a charge for more than 1 week. I have been putting off battery replacement for a year. I ordered new batteries and decided I may as well replace the alternator with unknown miles and years. It's probably a rebuilt Ford 110 alternator with at least 100k miles. Van has 808k on the clock.
I am replacing as a preventative maintenance measure.
Can you provide some details as what you removed and how you released the tension on the belt?
I want to run a large cable from the front battery to the alternator. Did you make your own or buy one? Since I have everything apart, now is a good time to upgrade.
I want to run a large cable from the front battery to the alternator. Did you make your own or buy one? Since I have everything apart, now is a good time to upgrade.
Thanks!
Why would you want to do that? There is already a main B+ feed that runs from the starter B+ main terminal directly to the alternator from the factory. The last thing I would want to be doing on a high mile unit like yours, is to have to mess around with anything inside the engine compartment if I didn't have to.
Staring at 4:10 he removes the CAC tube (that's the one with insulation wrapped around it you had red arrows pointing to). I didn't catch him taking the bracket apart, but I was skipping through it fast. Loosen the boot clamps on each end of the tube and the bolt still holding it in should be pretty straightforward to find.
Alternator has three bolts holding it down, one wiring connector, and a B+ wire to disconnect. Don't short the wire to anything (ie disconnect your battery grounds and insulate them) and don't break that stud on the back of the alternator when you put the new one in, the spec is 71 in-lb, aka snug with a short 1/4" ratchet.
Is the CAC attached to clamp inside the engine compartment?
Do I need to remove the fan shroud and fan to get to the alternator?
Yes and No.
There's no need to add a piggyback wire for a stock output alternator. If you do add a wire, bare minimum please at least fuse it in a manner similar to theFICMrepair.com wire kit for the F-Series. Jack proved out the current flow with a clamp meter, it's in one of his videos somewhere, you've been in the 6.0 forum enough to find them.
Originally Posted by nodbone
So what I did was put a cable from the alternator all the positive terminal on the battery.
You need to put a fuse in that link or you run the risk of burning the van down. You have a running and non-running power source that if anything happens (ie frontal collision) can start arcing in a very tight and very hot engine bay on top of an engine that notoriously leaks oil and fuel.
i made a video to help a bit on how to change the alternator for other people... its a video i made very quickly sorry its not super precise it's just to help a bit and give you an idea on what to expect before you start the job.
i made a video to help a bit on how to change the alternator for other people... its a video i made very quickly sorry its not super precise it's just to help a bit and give you an idea on what to expect before you start the job.
Excellent videos for novice backyard mechanics. The manual makes it sound so complicated. YS makes it sound easy. I will use this method next weekend and post a video with everything removed.
His method of removing the alternator without loosening the tension is not the best method-just like he said. DieselTech Ron suggests pulling on the serpentine belt. There probably is not enough room in the E350 to do this. Autozone has serpentine belt removal too for rent (free) that should fit once you remove everything YS suggests.
There's no need to add a piggyback wire for a stock output alternator. Bare minimum please at least fuse it like the FICMrepair.com wire kit for the F-Series. Jack proved out the current flow with a clamp meter, it's in one of his videos somewhere, you've been in the 6.0 forum enough to find them.
.
Are you saying fuse the stock wire from the batteries to the alternator with a wire kit like Ed sells at FICMrepair.com?
I am installing a slightly used 140 amp alternator I picked up from a low mileage E350 PSD van. I want to practice installing an alternator at home in case I ever have to do it on the side of the road. I will carry the pulled out 110 amp alternator as a spare. I am contemplating buying the same Bosche 135 amp alternator that Too Many Toys (Jack) installed in his truck. New is probably better than used.
No you don't need to add anything, the fusible link in the factory wire can handle the output a 140A alt. I was telling the other guy to fuse his piggyback wire that he added, and telling you that if youadd a piggyback wire, yes you do need to fuse it.
Reworded for clarity.
I removed everything needed to get to the alternator. I pulled on the serpentine belt and released enough tension to know that I can remove it. Getting it back on could become a problem unless I can lock that tab.
Before I unbolt it the alternator, I have a few questions.
Does my tensioner have the same square hole as this photo?
Ford 6.0 serpentine belt drive
Does Autozone, etc. have this tool to rent or do I have to buy a Ford tool?
How I remove the electrical connections to the back of the alternator? Squeeze? Do I do this before I unbolt the alternator or after?
I plan on replacing the fuel filter as it's in plain view and easily accessible.
Is the EGR easy to remove and clean? I heard that some people leave it unplugged as an alternative to EGR delete.
Removing everything was really easy. I should have done this when I replaced my fuel filter and blue spring upgrade!
I removed everything needed to get to the alternator. I pulled on the serpentine belt and released enough tension to know that I can remove it. Getting it back on could become a problem unless I can lock that tab. It can be locked by reaching up from underneath while an assistant holds the belt in the released position from above, by wedging a prybar onto the belt and using the corner of the intake as a fulcrum for the prybar. This, I believe is your dilemma, needing two people.
Before I unbolt it the alternator, I have a few questions.
Does my tensioner have the same square hole as this photo?
Ford 6.0 serpentine belt drive YES.
Does Autozone, etc. have this tool to rent or do I have to buy a Ford tool?
How I remove the electrical connections to the back of the alternator? Squeeze? Do I do this before I unbolt the alternator or after? On an E-Series van, I unbolt the alternator and position it in manner that makes it easier for me to access those electrical connections since space is tight.
I plan on replacing the fuel filter as it's in plain view and easily accessible. You mean fuel filters, RIGHT? Fuel filters are sold in kits of both filters (at least they are from Ford). If it's the secondary fuel filter you are referring to (the one on top of the engine), might I suggest using either a 24mm or 15/16" socket to remove the cap, NOT the 1/2" square drive?
Is the EGR easy to remove and clean? I heard that some people leave it unplugged as an alternative to EGR delete. Yes, the EGR valve is relatively simple to access and remove if you're "in there" already.
Removing everything was really easy. I should have done this when I replaced my fuel filter and blue spring upgrade! We are working on an E-Series, right? How did you manage to do the "blue spring" update if you are unfamiliar as you say are, with the questions you are asking?
Your questions are answered in bold red font above.
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