Getting into a truck
#1
Getting into a truck
I have been considering restoring an older Ford 1 ton or 3/4 ton for several years now. I have restored several wartime MB/GPW jeeps, trailers, and other pieces of equipment; so I understand the commitment a full restoration takes.
I really like the 1938-1939, and the 1942-1947 body styles. As far as parts availability and ease of maintenance, are there any major differences or reasons to justify going for one year over another? I am wanting to do a frame off all original factory restoration.
What would be a reasonable price range to stay within for a mostly complete truck in need of full rebuild? I have tried to research prices, but they are all over the place.
If anyone has any advice, please feel free to add. Any leads on good restoration candidates around Missouri would be great as well.
Thanks!
I really like the 1938-1939, and the 1942-1947 body styles. As far as parts availability and ease of maintenance, are there any major differences or reasons to justify going for one year over another? I am wanting to do a frame off all original factory restoration.
What would be a reasonable price range to stay within for a mostly complete truck in need of full rebuild? I have tried to research prices, but they are all over the place.
If anyone has any advice, please feel free to add. Any leads on good restoration candidates around Missouri would be great as well.
Thanks!
#2
Well this is a tough one for sure. It is best to look for a complete rust free truck if possible. Look for good sheet metal also. You will spend a lot on tires, wiring kit, wheel cylinders and the like but at least if the truck is complete you wont have to spend additional on missing or better parts that what you start with. Also rebuilding the engine and or parts on the drive train can run into lots of money depending upon many decisions and then there is the cost of paint/body work. That is why prices can be all over the board. No matter what, you will put more into it than you will get out of it if you sell generally speaking depending upon what your final outcome is meant to be.
Keep us posted on your progress and or new truck. Lots of good people here to help.
Mark
Keep us posted on your progress and or new truck. Lots of good people here to help.
Mark
#3
Mark,
Thanks for the reply.
I definitely have found that it is better to pay more upfront for a more complete project, rather than try to save a little and then have to track down all the individual parts. It adds up pretty quick.
Unfortunately I am all to familiar with putting more money into a project than it's worth. However, I enjoy the restoration work and being able to bring them back to life, so I try not to keep track of how deep I go into the money pit, it takes the fun out of it!
I understand that prices vary a lot depending on condition and originality. I have been looking mostly at rolling non running trucks with original drive train, and even their prices are all over the place. Anywhere from $500-$10k for "pasture" trucks.
Thanks for the reply.
I definitely have found that it is better to pay more upfront for a more complete project, rather than try to save a little and then have to track down all the individual parts. It adds up pretty quick.
Unfortunately I am all to familiar with putting more money into a project than it's worth. However, I enjoy the restoration work and being able to bring them back to life, so I try not to keep track of how deep I go into the money pit, it takes the fun out of it!
I understand that prices vary a lot depending on condition and originality. I have been looking mostly at rolling non running trucks with original drive train, and even their prices are all over the place. Anywhere from $500-$10k for "pasture" trucks.
#4
42-47 Ford 1 ton and larger will be hard to find some parts for. Some parts will be easy as some will interchange off a 1/2 ton (Cab, doors, hood and front end will work, fenders will not)
Depending on where you are located and how far you are willing to travel or get a vehicle delivered will dictate price among other aspects (running, not running, good shape, near scrap yard shape) I paid $400 for mine, but then it was my father in laws truck at the time and I paid off a garage debt he had for another vehicle. You also have to realize that 42-47 trucks are harder to find due to war time restrictions. So that will also increase prices as well.
https://cnj.craigslist.org/cto/d/194...464499904.html
Depending on where you are located and how far you are willing to travel or get a vehicle delivered will dictate price among other aspects (running, not running, good shape, near scrap yard shape) I paid $400 for mine, but then it was my father in laws truck at the time and I paid off a garage debt he had for another vehicle. You also have to realize that 42-47 trucks are harder to find due to war time restrictions. So that will also increase prices as well.
https://cnj.craigslist.org/cto/d/194...464499904.html
#5
I always say buy the best truck you can afford to start with. It will cost less in the long run and probably have a better end result too. Don't be afraid to travel halfway across the country for a good truck. I see way too many guys here on the internet who start with swiss cheese junk because they wont take a couple days off and drive 1000 miles for a really good one.
#7
These photos are the size/body style that I am wanting. The 1.5T and larger trucks are cool, but a little big for me at the moment. I have been keeping an eye on craigslist, and mostly the larger trucks and flat beds come up. The 38/39 is definitely my favorite, but I wouldn't pass on the later trucks if the right one came along.
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