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The best route is to completely flush the system and go with ELC EC-1 rated coolant. No filtration needed. Just my $.02
Well... Mostly correct. I was doing some work to my truck, radiator, water pump, oil cooler Tstat, inj. orings and all hoses. I done a complete flush and clean out of my cooling system using Cascade dishwasher liquid. Which works very well by the way. But after a while I started noticing crud and floaters in my degas bottle. What happened was even after several hose flushes and 40 gallons of distilled water there was still Cascade left in the system and it continued to clean. So the point is even after a thorough flush I still needed a coolant filtration system. Which I purchased from Riffraff Diesel.
I put a Sinister coolant filter on my 2000. If International has an integrated filter on their water pumps maybe its not a bad idea to have one. Plus it adds another quart or so of coolant and some extra plumbing for the coolant to run through maybe get a little more cooling from the system.
You can’t use ELC in certain 7.3’s but I’m not up on the details. It’s in the link.
I believe it was the earlier models with the factory injector cups. The ELC isn't compatible with the sealant used on the cups. Or so I'm told. I'm not an engineer or a subject matter expert, but this has been the general consensus from my readings here at FTE
I believe that the "cut-off" for the ELC is mid year 99' but I don't know how you could do a test to make sure that a late 99' has the "right stuff"
Best way to decide is by engine serial nbr
Found this in Gooch's Coolant thread
*Tip* Due to International's compatibility tests, all pre-2/2/99 build engines (pre-SN 940614) should use a conventional coolant with the addition of SCA (or a pre-charged conventional coolant already charged with SCA).
I also run the Rotella ELC CAT EC-1 and also second the upper rad hose that route around the belt. A couple bucks that saves you two-fold more in headache later when replacing the belt.
Cut off date is 2/2/99 for ELC. I don't run a filter but have considered Clay's product if I were to. There was a write up on here also making your own DIY kit using Napa parts for under $60 IIRC.
The way I understand it to decide whether or not to use ELC is not truck build date 2/2/99 but engine build date and serial number. They could have built engines that sat on the shelf for a month or 2 and went into a later build truck. to be sure check your engine serial number. Can be found on the sticker on your valve cover I think(mine is gone). I know for sure it's stamped on the flat surface on the block just above the oil filter.
Another consideration is the "why" a filter is needed. I understand this to be for the use of the SCA in the coolant. Over time, the SCA drops out of solution as a particulate. This explains the need to test SCA levels and add more as required over time.
If you can convert to ELC, then you will no longer have any SCA in your coolant system and shouldn't need the filters. Although as indicated by schlepprock250 a very thorough flush is needed, if even possible to get all particulate matter out of your system. Also, if you stick with SCA and go with the IH water pump w/ integral filter, pre-charged SCA filters are available, making it easier to ensure proper SCA levels.
Gooch's Flush is a good read for info about all of this.
Another consideration is the "why" a filter is needed. I understand this to be for the use of the SCA in the coolant. Over time, the SCA drops out of solution as a particulate. This explains the need to test SCA levels and add more as required over time.
If you can convert to ELC, then you will no longer have any SCA in your coolant system and shouldn't need the filters.
Ah, but to quote Gooch from that information thread I compiled, "...a coolant filter is always a good idea...in any cooling system."
Ah, but to quote Gooch from that information thread I compiled, "...a coolant filter is always a good idea...in any cooling system."
Stewart
I went with the IH water pump with built in filter. I fully expected my first filter to be full of crud based on pics posted by other folks who had posted first filters.
I was pleasantly surprised when I cut it open that my first filter after 5000k miles was virtually debris free. Very anti climatic but I have peace of mind and a very easy filter change.
I had the same experience as Paul after installing the IH pump and cutting open the filter at 1000 miles, then again at 7000. No debris, but I swapped to ELC at the pump install time and ran a lot of water through the system.
If you decide you don't want to run a filter, there is a shut off valve that is easily turned. I would recommend leaving the filter on though otherwise there is an open port to your cooling system if not.
I don't think that shut-off valve is meant to allow running w/o a filter installed. The valve has an o-ring to keep it from leaking past the stem, but the internal part isn't sealed at all - at least not on my aftermarket IH style pump. I think it's more of a way to keep your coolant from quickly draining out while changing the filter.
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