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Old Jan 20, 2018 | 11:41 AM
  #16  
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That grey Ford sealant is what seems to be used there and I didn't unhook that heater hose. But IIRC a short extension helps get around that hose.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2018 | 11:43 AM
  #17  
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gasket

Is it possible, that the gasket had failed? I'm not seeing ANY evidence of service plug failure. A bit of crud around it but nothing "wet"... Cardboard so I wouldn't drop washer
Clean
Maybe this?
Or this
 
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Old Jan 20, 2018 | 11:45 AM
  #18  
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I guess that gasket could fail, was the pump loose any? And you don't need cardboard, that washer is too big to fall through the cracks in there, they got that part right.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2018 | 11:59 AM
  #19  
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Nah, not at all. Matter of fact, I need a new p/s hpop bolt. Stripped the damn thing, but this pump was set tough...thinking of bolting it up with new gasket and hope for best
 
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Old Jan 20, 2018 | 12:53 PM
  #20  
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You can remove that coolant hose if you want to and you won't loose that much coolant, but be careful where it runs- not into anything it can hurt.

When I removed the EBP sensor and tube for servicing recently, it was really in the way so I removed it. Just had to top off my coolant reservoir when finished.

Are you sure you stripped your HPOP bolt? I'm guessing your loosened your fuel bowl and removed it first, right?

That stinks. Hopefully just the bolt

Keep at it
 
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Old Jan 20, 2018 | 01:56 PM
  #21  
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Yup..bowl outta the way, and now hpop on table. I'm running with it with just a base gasket replacement. I also redoing an oring on the one hose fitting, so it needs to cure for a day. Installing egt's now👍
 
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Old Jan 21, 2018 | 02:33 PM
  #22  
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Wild... While checking out hpop and a bolt that would secure it to block, I happened to look the rear plug bolt. Noticed some oring debris so with NO effort with crescent, she spun loose. Probably could've spun with my fingers. So, off I go dig'n in my parts no, and the closest thing to that oring, was a pedestal one. Cleaned threads, installed oring, dab of 680 and now she sits, curing.....
. Also, while pump was sitn at angle, is there an oring behind the back plate with snap ring? There was a bit of wetness/discharge that had puddles within 10-15min..... Plug in question
I got lucky!
 
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Old Jan 21, 2018 | 06:47 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by timmyboy76
....... is there an oring behind the back plate with snap ring? ....
Yes. If you ever have a question about o-rings, your best bet is to visit Bob's site first. If you need it, he's probably got it on his site with instructions on how to install it. HPOP Rear Plate O-ring Seal
 
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Old Jan 21, 2018 | 07:20 PM
  #24  
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Thanks Chris. Never gave a thought to look Bob up. I got the hpop propped up now to see if it seeps. If it does, what's another couple days down. Good time then to install the level kit👍, while waiting on oring
 
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Old Jan 22, 2018 | 08:28 AM
  #25  
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Are you going to remove the check valves from those fittings on the HPOP? It eliminates the need for HPx and still balances the pressure between the heads.

If you replace them with new (HPO lines are 100k service interval, too), please keep the old ones- I'm trying to get a couple Cody testers put together with them.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2018 | 08:48 AM
  #26  
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No, I'm running with the stockers for now. I removed all fittings and relaced them with orings couple weeks ago. If/when I decide to change to AN fittings, ill send them your WA...my buddy has the cncfab lines, so those fittings will be available. Just not sure when he'll get around to doing his
 
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Old Jan 22, 2018 | 09:37 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by timmyboy76
No, I'm running with the stockers for now. I removed all fittings and relaced them with orings couple weeks ago. If/when I decide to change to AN fittings, ill send them your WA...my buddy has the cncfab lines, so those fittings will be available. Just not sure when he'll get around to doing his
I appreciate the offer on the fittings, just asking you not to throw them out if you're replacing them

I think you can remove the check valves in the stock ones, too.

Did you replace the hoses? Since you have the HPOP out, it's a good time to do them

*IF* you were considering replacing your HPOP fittings, having the HPOP out and emptied is a very good time to do the cleaning and replacement. I did it while mounted in the truck, which was okay, but would be easier on the bench- you could tilt it back and not worry about oil draining on the threads
 
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Old Jan 22, 2018 | 09:38 AM
  #28  
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Have you cleaned and serviced your EBP sensor and tubing recently? Should be pretty easy to get to with the HPOP removed
 
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Old Jan 22, 2018 | 10:07 AM
  #29  
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over and beyond

Yessir👍.... When doing the waterpump few weeks back, is when I did the orings, hpop lines, ebp and gutted the stock hpop fittings. They're nothing more than a spring and flat disc. Looks like something that you used to convert your mechanical pen in elementary, as a gun, lol....i just used one of the springs this morning to fix my phone charger, haha.

a thread surfaced a see ago about pocket. I did it then and thinking of doing it now. I dont/wont chip/tune my truck, so ebp reading is dormant to me. Instead of cleaning/replacing the tube/sensor, you cap the sensor off with npt cap and remove tube and plug hole in manifold...thought?
 
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Old Jan 22, 2018 | 11:55 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by timmyboy76
Yessir👍.... When doing the waterpump few weeks back, is when I did the orings, hpop lines, ebp and gutted the stock hpop fittings. They're nothing more than a spring and flat disc. Looks like something that you used to convert your mechanical pen in elementary, as a gun, lol....i just used one of the springs this morning to fix my phone charger, haha.

a thread surfaced a see ago about pocket. I did it then and thinking of doing it now. I dont/wont chip/tune my truck, so ebp reading is dormant to me. Instead of cleaning/replacing the tube/sensor, you cap the sensor off with npt cap and remove tube and plug hole in manifold...thought?
So you did that with your pen, eh? I don't think I'm surprised LOL

EBP is not my expertise, but I've seen it listed on many MPG and performance tests. If you unplug it, the PCM will use some calculated values. When I forgot to plug mine in a while back, it ran really high.

The exact effect I am not sure about.

The thread you are mentioning, I think I was part of that, determining if the truck could be run without the tube until the new part arrived. I believe the advice was to cap it off so it didn't have a turbo exhaust side leak and it could actually suck something into the turbo system.

Do you think your sensor is bad? They are pricey, but the tube is less than $50 I think. No reason not to fix it, IMHO

Fix the inexpensive things, they all add up to how well your truck performs

I think I was following your water pump progress, but things slip my mind and keeping track of who is doing what at the time

Nothing wrong with being stock and reliable
 
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