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I know these aren't "real" gauges, so I'm wondering if it's the gauge, a stepper motor, or if I really have an issue... or maybe it's normal...
The needle sits on the "L" of "Normal" all the time. It's not stuck there, it zeroes out when the ignition is turned off. My MM is packed-up somewhere (moving) so I'm wondering if I need to dig it out, or just let it go.
I would dig out the meter to double check. I guess you could also bring it to a place that checks batteries and alternators.
Red
You're probably right... I dread the thought of digging through boxes of garage crap more than anything. I think I'd rather just go buy another MultiMeter.
Are these gauges fairly accurate? It looks to be charging @ 15V or so, ALL THE TIME. What's the normal charge rate on these trucks (93 F150, 4.9) given a good battery? Any good advice on testing the voltage regulator (assuming it's a possible culprit)?
Although it's still in the "Normal" range, if the gauge is accurate, that seems to be working the alternator pretty hard.
Remember that in cold weather, a battery takes a higher voltage to charge. What's your temp these days?
No, those gauges are not particularly accurate. Buy a cheap DVM, you can get reasonably accurate ones (at least for DC Volts) at Harbor Freight and other places. Or borrow a better one.
First thing is to find out what the actual voltage is at the battery posts. Then go from there.
Measure charging voltage directly at battery posts. Ballpark is 13.8-14.3, turn on headlights and radio, heater blower fan etc, to load up alternator and spool up engine RPM to 1500 or so. Charging voltage should stay in the zone. Yes also keep in mind cold weather means higher numbers are required.
Hate to break it to you, but those are "real" gauges. Even the oil pressure gauge is a real gauge, Ford just turns it into a glorified idiot light by installing an oil pressure switch instead of a proper sender. Install an oil pressure sender, short the resistor on the back of the cluster, and swap the face plates with ones that have calibrated numbers on them; and you've got gauges that are just as good as anything you'd get from Autometer.
When I replaced the alternator in my '93 F250 7.5l, the needle went to the right of the battery icon. With the old alternator the needle was on the left of the battery.
It's not a new thing, but I've only had the truck for like, 6 mos. I've thought that I could smell "battery smell" a few times last fall (when it was warmer)... you know the smell. Kind of a metallic, coppery smell... the smell that's on your hands after you work on a battery.
I'll dig out the MM and check it. But if the charge rate IS high, whats the fix? Regulator?
Thanks for the help. I really do appreciate it... just got busy w work so I couldn't tend to my own thread. Got another b*tch of a week ahead of me. I love OT but... daaaamn.
You could take to the 'Zone or that Irish parts store, most of them will test batteries and charging systems for free.
Do the headlights or dash lights change brightness depending on engine RPM, anything like that? Overcharging is not good, another simple check is to install a voltmeter in the cigar lighter receptacle.
I picked up a plug-in DVM and watched it the other night on the way to work... about 5 miles, 15-20 min depending on if I catch all the red lights.
Started at 14.3V w engine running, lights on, defroster running w fan on low. It dropped 1/10th at a time and finished @ 13.9V when I shut it off. 12.8 V at rest.
Seems pretty normal to me. What say you?
Sounds about right - keep in mind that for accuracy measurement at the battery posts is preferred. Might see a 1/2 volt difference/error, which is quite a lot when it comes to batteries and charging. Depending on battery state of charge and temperature somewhere around and between 13 to 15 volts is normal and necessary and righteous. Numbers sound real good.
