Installing distributor help
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2017
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Installing distributor help
I think I have my timing wrong. Engine used to somewhat start the first time I put it in so I thought I was off. Took it out and tried again now won't start at all. Also if someone has a pic of wire placement for the plugs that would be great. I am starting with the #1 cylinder at tdc on compression. Btw it's a 352
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2017
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ALL new cam, lifters, pushrods, etc. Sounds a LOT better btw. I do need to get a timing light and time it. But I noticed that the nozzle that injects fuel from the accelerating pump has no fuel coming out. Onlybthe drivers side. Any good way to clean that? And I think it's autolite 2100? Haven't don't too much research on it.
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2017
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yep went fine. Let it run for 25 minutes (20 was what was recommended). Need to change oil now lol
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
OK... just so we're trackin'.
Yeah make sure the accelerator pump rod arm is in the uppermost hole position right now. That's for the fattest shot in cold weather, and it qualifies as cold right now. But there should be two jets of fuel squirt from the pump nozzles immediately and during the entire swing of throttle. Probably accelerator pump check valve and other parts need replace & reconditioning.
Yeah make sure the accelerator pump rod arm is in the uppermost hole position right now. That's for the fattest shot in cold weather, and it qualifies as cold right now. But there should be two jets of fuel squirt from the pump nozzles immediately and during the entire swing of throttle. Probably accelerator pump check valve and other parts need replace & reconditioning.
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2017
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Likes: 22
OK... just so we're trackin'.
Yeah make sure the accelerator pump rod arm is in the uppermost hole position right now. That's for the fattest shot in cold weather, and it qualifies as cold right now. But there should be two jets of fuel squirt from the pump nozzles immediately and during the entire swing of throttle. Probably accelerator pump check valve and other parts need replace & reconditioning.
Yeah make sure the accelerator pump rod arm is in the uppermost hole position right now. That's for the fattest shot in cold weather, and it qualifies as cold right now. But there should be two jets of fuel squirt from the pump nozzles immediately and during the entire swing of throttle. Probably accelerator pump check valve and other parts need replace & reconditioning.
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2017
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yes. The kit came with a new ball, and put that all in. I'm a bit of a newbie when it comes with car carbs (I know tractors and small engines lol). What is a booster cluster?
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2017
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So for the accelerator pump, if I push the throttle completely open, the pump should slowly go in right?
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Well not sure how to describe that in terms of speed, just that there should be two streams of fuel immediately, as soon as throttle moves.
Whenever throttle is opened there is a momentary lag or bog as the fuel needs a little time to catch up. The workaround is the accelerator pump shot, provides extra fuel to smooth things out. How's the fuel level in the bowl? Maybe if it was real low, that might cause trouble I guess. Accelerator pump curcuit is simple.
Whenever throttle is opened there is a momentary lag or bog as the fuel needs a little time to catch up. The workaround is the accelerator pump shot, provides extra fuel to smooth things out. How's the fuel level in the bowl? Maybe if it was real low, that might cause trouble I guess. Accelerator pump curcuit is simple.
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2017
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Alright the fuel in the bowl was at a good level. I cleaned that nozzle, was clogged pretty good. Now...does it take awhile for coolant to smoke off because I'm getting white smoke from my rad and I know I spilled a little and see some at the bottom
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