Check spark quality at a plug. If it's good don't worry about the condensor, unless it's another POS condenser from the parts stores.

NOS or NORS points and condenser are the best thing going and are still inexpensive. They will be +/- 10 years say, from the age of your truck.

Points need maybe 50 or 100 miles to settle in. Then good for a long time. The rubbing block, the part that rides on the distributor cam, needs a small amount of point grease on it. It will still wear a bit, and this closes the gap up at first.

Next, while points are initially set up with a feeler gauge at .015" say, that's just a ballpark setting, so engine will start, then they can be "fine tuned". Points are properly adjusted by measuring the dwell; This refers to how many degrees of rotation or time, that the points remain or dwell closed.

The coil builds up a charge during the time period (milliseconds) when points are closed, so the longer they can remain closed the hotter the potential spark can be. When the points open, the coil field collapses and plugs fire.

When points are new the relationship between dwell measurement and feeler gauge clearance is close, but as they wear it can deviate.

The idea then at this final stage of the installation or tuneup is to adjust the point gap to achieve the proper dwell angle (30° say) without regard to the feeler gauge.

The distributor doesn't really care, the #1 plug wire on the cap is arbitrary. So long as the wires are in proper firing order sequence, everything is fine, unless there isn't enough clearance to turn the distributor body enough to time the engine. It will start hitting something, vacuum canister on intake, etc. It's probably best to have everything lined up correctly as it is a lot less confusing.

You really need to borrow a timing light, or buy one. It's part of the diagnostics as well. Want to see that the mechanical weights & springs governing the ignition timing advances and retards smoothly and cleanly up and down the RPM range, the vacuum advance is pulling in OK.