Buy the one without block align bored. If a machine shop has rebuilt your engine and align bored the main bearing saddles and block, the crank's center line would be a tiny bit closer to the cam. So the chain in the timing set should be a tiny bit smaller in diameter. I highly doubt this has been done to your street engine.

 

Ok thanks . I’m going to buy everything I should need tonight .

Thanks

 

Timing chain set, Timing cover gasket set, RTV, and o-ring for the Dizzy. Pertronix? I've lost track if you've converted already or not. How's your belts, hoses, and tune up stuff? Cap, rotor, wires, spark plugs, filters, vacuum hose, etc.
When putting it back together put a thin layer of wheel bearing grease on the I.D. of the front main seal. Also pour some oil on the new chain just before you bolt the timing cover back on.

 

Tyvm. Just got things ordered. I still have original dizzy with points . Belts and hoses are good . Not sure about cap and rotor . Plugs , wires and filters are almost new.

 

Check the terminals on the inside of the cap. They look nasty then replace the cap and rotor. Make an easy path for the spark to follow.





Also check the points for same thing. Fried? Metal transferred from one point to the other? Etc.







Then replace them with Genuine Ford (Motorcraft) points and condenser ONLY. And I mean ONLY. There is a bunch of junk aftermarket condensers out there.
Been a gazzilion of them on this board in the past few years.


Points.....part number B8Q12171A (DP12)
Condenser...part number C9AZ12300A (DC13A)
Yes, they are still available from Ford.

 

Ok thank you . I will check these things . That’s pretty crazy Ford still has those manufactured.

 

Hey everyone, started pulling things off this afternoon. Pretty much just wanted to get everything off the front so I was down to the timing cover when my chain gets delivered hopefully tomorrow. I was talking to a guy and he said that since there’s a good possibility that my chain has jumped a tooth I need to get my first cylinder to tdc on a power stroke . I wasn’t completely following what he meant , but I guess if it did jump a tooth then my marks on the sprockets won’t line up ... Does this sound right ? I want to get a second opinion before I pull my valve cover off . Last time I did it took me 3 tries to get it sealed up lol

 

I already referenced this in post #57. With the crank timing mark at "0" (TDC) the crank is set at where it needs to be. If the cam gear's mark doesn't line up, use the old gear to spin the cam to align up the marks. Then the cam will be in the right spot. Then swap out the timing set.
I quote myself.


The Street True. Note how the alignment marks are supposed to be lined up when you install this set. 1st thing you do before tearing the front cover off is spin the engine around until the external timing mark is at "O". The engine spins easier with the spark plugs removed. Then take the cover off and check the gears. Especially the cam gear. The marks are supposed to be lined up like the pic on that site you mentioned.

But the cam will prolly be shifted to one side or another because of the slop or nylon teeth gone. Spin the cam and gear to align the marks. Then swap out the timing sets.



__________________

 

For V8 I recall reading somewhere an easy check is to observe whether #6 cylinder valves are at overlap when #1 piston is at TDC. Don't know how true that is but it makes sense to me. Not a Cam guru tho.

 

Right ,and I did that . The guy I talked to was saying that I could that but if my chain jumped a tooth it wouldn’t help like I said I didn’t quite get what he was saying or if it was accurate so I thought I’d double check . I did just pull the cover off and the marks were just about lined up so I spun the engine a bit and they are lined up now . My chain didn’t show today. So I guess I’m closing things back up till it does. At least it should be a quick swap now that I have all the tear down out of the way.
Thanks

 

Hey everyone, just posting an update . Timing chain came and I got it all installed and everything back together about 4days ago . I wanted to give the silicone plenty of time to cure in this cold weather. Seems to of sealed up fine I ran it for about 5min . Still runs pretty rough . I’m hoping it just needs timing adjusted , hoping to get to that later this afternoon, I started it last night ,but the oil pump drive shaft is leaning over so I cant install the distributor. I’ll probably get some thick grease and put a whole bunch down there and mabey I can kinda get it to stay centered then. The chain was very loose on the left side
( standing in front of the engine ) and tight on the other side. I don’t believe it jumped a tooth because the dots still lined up . I was aactually hoping it did then I would known I found my problem. The new chain fits perfect and is good and tight . Only difference is I left the oil slinger off. Manufacturer says it will interfere with the new chain.

 

There’s the old one . The teeth were considerably smaller and more dull on the old ones then on the new sprockets

 

"New wires". Double check and make sure you don't have two or more wires in the wrong spot on the cap. AKA wires reversed.

You have me confused. You say you started it last night and in the same sentence you can't install the Dizzy. The Dizzy had to be in there in order to start the engine.
And I've never seen the oil pump driveshaft over to one side far enough to keep the Dizzy out. Please post a pic of the Dizzy's hole and that drive shaft.

 

Haha sorry . After everything was back together from installing the chain I started it up and it was running bad . Next I pulled the dizzy to move it over a tooth and now I’m having trouble getting it back in because of the oil drive shaft.

 

I got the dizzy back in so I can’t take a pic of the shaft . I will if I have to take it back out again



But that’s how far it sits in there . Does that seem about right ? I wasn’t paying attention to that when I removed it what does the shaft leaning over mean ?