Hello,
My 01 E-350 7,3 PS gets oil in the intake and that has to come from the turbo. Smokes bad and smells burnt oil after start when sitting for some minutes. Not bad after that but loses oil. Runs strong otherwise so my guess is bad internal oil seals in the turbo.
Was thinking about changing seals myself but as I have a parts truck from '98 with a working turbo I thought I could ask if it will fit. Searches tell me that part numbers are different between a 98 and a 01 turbo.
So, do you know if it will fit without modifications?

Or should I go ahead and change the seals or is it risky so I should get a reman turbo?

Thanks

 

Simple answer, no. Not as a direct bolt on.
Others will correct me, but I believe the center cartridge is the same. The turbine housing (exhaust portion) could be the same if it's an .84 a/r. Also I don't know what application a '98 turbo is from, it might be the same as the van turbo which did not have a wastegate. The compressor housing has a smaller diameter than an '01, so that part will not fit the intake spider, and makes it incompatible as a drop in replacement.

But the point is you could at least rebuild the '98 center cartridge, and if those components are good, use the compressor housing of your existing turbo to complete it. If the turbine wheel/shaft and the compressor wheel are not damaged, the turbo is not that bad to rebuild.

 

Thanks!
The '98 I have is in a E-350 too. Guess I should rebuild the '01 turbo then. Is it ok to just put in new seals and make sure everything is clocked the same as before teardown to not disturb the balancing? Asuming everything else is ok. There is so much talk about balancing according to turbo rebuilds so I'm a little scared of messing things up if I do more than new oil seals. Will new bearings disturb the balance? Will service kit ROTOMASTER A1380306N from Rockauto work?http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/f...vice+kit,16567
Should I order the mounting kit also?

 

SP Turbo is supposedly a very good kit. Riff Raff diesel is also a very good source.

GTP38 360º Bearing Rebuild Kit 99-03 - Riffraff Diesel Performance

 

Along with the turbo rebuild kit, you will need the two o-rings to mount it, and probably the compressor outlet to spider o-ring. It looks like the rebuild kit from RA is the 360° bearing kit. Check out Riffraff.

Search for turbo rebuild threads, there are some things you want to check for wear, like the compressor wheel/shaft play, bent fins, etc. I don't know what came on the van turbos, but for the pickups, some folks prefer the older '97 compressor wheel to the stock L99 up wheel. That '98 wheel might be an "upgrade". Hopefully someone who knows will post.

 

No worry about clocking or balancing with these. Being reverse rotation the wheel will try to tighten. Tighten to the torque spec and call it good. Myself I did good and snug and all has been fine but you should use a torque wrench.

I used the rebuild kit from spturboost and am happy. I also used a billet compressor wheel from them.

 

Thanks, som really good info here!
I looked at Riffraff's web shop but they have two different rebuild kits. One is "GTP 38 360 Bearing rebuild kit". The other is "GTP 380 Journal Bearing Rebuild kit". Can you explain the difference and what "360" means?

 

I'm not sure how a van is set up but assume similar to truck engine. Oil in the intake could be coming from CCV.


How clean is air filter? If clogged the engine could sucking oil.


If you flip the oil cap over on the filler neck does it blow off or sit there?

 

The stock bearing assembly in the turbo has a bearing thrust collar which supports 3/4 of the bearing, or 270°. The bearing itself is a one piece unit that slides into the collar. The 360° kit has a two piece bearing assembly that fits into a collar from each side that supports the bearing all the way around.

It's generally accepted that the 360° kit is better. There are also differences in the thrust collar material as well, but those benefits are above my knowledge base. As linked above Riffraff makes one, as does SPTurbo. It looks like the SPTurbo kit has all the parts needed to reinstall the turbo as well.

 

Good point, Allabout. Guess the ccv is set up the same way as in the trucks. Pressure can not be felt when putting a hand over the filler neck and a lose cap will not move even when revving the engine. Airfilters are a couple of years old but look clean (I use to blow through them from behind once a year). Filterindicator sits at the opposite end of the "change filter" mark.
Maybe I could rule out the ccv 100% by removing the hose from the engine to the air intake and see if the problem goes away. Just don't think that is the cause.
Saint: Thanks! I'll check out SP too.