Ignition electronics

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Dec 23, 2017 | 11:10 PM

#16

wufnu

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From: Pine Mountain, GA

Will a 302 cam fit in a 351W? Maybe the PO "knew a guy" that works for drugs, had it "fixed", and the guy put the wrong cam in. Will check cylinder 3 valves to make sure it goes compression after cylinder 1.

Dec 24, 2017 | 08:14 PM

#17

wufnu

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From: Pine Mountain, GA

Some progress. Compression was fine so physics says it should be running but we were getting nothing. Plugs came gapped at .043, tag above radiator specified .044, so I reset plug gaps at .045 still nothing. Pulled a plug to see spark, it was reg/orange and arcing to side of plug arm instead of tip. Reset plug gaps to .040 and got a cylinder to fire. Reset gap to .035 and got it to run on a cylinder or two for about 15 seconds. Further adjustment of spark gap yielded no improvement.

Will get new coil and pickup coil (whatever that electrical component in distributor is) tomorrow; just stabbing in the dark here. Everything else seems to be correct and tested. It should be running.

Dec 24, 2017 | 08:27 PM

#18

82_F100_300Six

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In my experience if it's the pickup coil it will act like it's trying to start when you let off the key.

Dec 28, 2017 | 01:58 AM

#19

wufnu

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From: Pine Mountain, GA

Got it running tonight. Still not sure what changed. Aftermarket distributor was only $5 more than aftermarket pickup coil, and videos said I needed a press to change pickup coil, so I just replaced distributor. Suspect it was pickup coil but could have just as easily been corroded/bad connector/wires, etc.

Only ran it once, will see if it starts again tomorrow. The plastic head is a very loose fit, never saw one that I could twist like that (if you pushed against cap, etc, the rotor would strike something. Typical aftermarket issues. Running very, eye-wateringly rich but I guess will deal with that later. Also strange issue where jiggling spark plugs wires may cause missing so will get new plugs and cap tomorrow.

Will also get new fuel tank and sending units since it's running.

Dec 28, 2017 | 06:30 AM

#20

kr98664

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Quote:

Originally Posted by wufnu

The plastic head is a very loose fit, never saw one that I could twist like that (if you pushed against cap, etc, the rotor would strike something. Typical aftermarket issues.

You can swap the adapter from the old distributor to the new one. This is the big plastic ring with clips that hold down the cap.

There's a second set of clips, way down on the metal body, that hold down this adapter. Make sure they are securely latched, too.

Dec 28, 2017 | 01:01 PM

#21

wufnu

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From: Pine Mountain, GA

Thanks KR. I probably described it poorly, it's the adapter that fits loosely. The second set of snaps are fully engaged but not very tight.

Dec 28, 2017 | 05:44 PM

#22

chsw

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Congratulations!

I love that feeling cranking a problem child. Hopefully the brakes will still be in serviceable condition.

I have found that if you bend the clips it holds better. Old timer showed me when I told him my cap was dancing on the new distributor.

Good luck.

Dec 28, 2017 | 08:31 PM

#23

wufnu

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From: Pine Mountain, GA

Replaced adapter and cap; it made things worse. Dad had some rubber laying around so cut a strip and glued it to the dist/adapter interface which fixed that issue. Cheap aftermarket parts never seem to fit right