Profile Ignition Pickup
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Profile Ignition Pickup
Code 14 means two or more successive erratic Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) pulses occurred, resulting in a possible engine miss or stall. What does this mean and what do I need to do to fix this? What problems does this cause or what is this doing to my truck?
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Near Fresno, California
The PIP is the output signal of the Hall-Effect device in your distributor. The controller uses if to determine which cylinder is firing, engine RPM and to time when the next spark should happen. (It sets the advance for the next cylinder.) When that time comes, the controller will output the SPOUT pulse, which the ignition module uses to trigger the coil.
The ignition module returns an IDM signal (Ignition Diagnostic Monitor) that the controller compares to the SPOUT, and, if different, concludes that there is a problem with the ignition module. The IDM is tied to the same pin as the coil and tachometer are.
If the ignition module does not receive a SPOUT command, it will fire the coil on the next PIP pulse. Since the distributor is set for a 10 degree advance, the timing will be set at a constant 10 degrees.
If I was troubleshooting this, I would use a timing light to insure my advance was greater than 10 degrees and increased as I rapped the engine up. If it was a constant 10 degrees I would check the wiring for the SPOUT.
If you want to just throw new parts at it, you could replace the ignition module (small grey box mounted on the distributor.)
The ignition module returns an IDM signal (Ignition Diagnostic Monitor) that the controller compares to the SPOUT, and, if different, concludes that there is a problem with the ignition module. The IDM is tied to the same pin as the coil and tachometer are.
If the ignition module does not receive a SPOUT command, it will fire the coil on the next PIP pulse. Since the distributor is set for a 10 degree advance, the timing will be set at a constant 10 degrees.
If I was troubleshooting this, I would use a timing light to insure my advance was greater than 10 degrees and increased as I rapped the engine up. If it was a constant 10 degrees I would check the wiring for the SPOUT.
If you want to just throw new parts at it, you could replace the ignition module (small grey box mounted on the distributor.)
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ya I have heard of people replacing their ignition module and they said it made their truck run like new. I willl check the timing when I can get ahold of a timing light, meanwhile I might go ahead and change the ignition module ( I found a new one for $30) so hopefully it will cure my problems. I really appreciate the advise
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,231
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From: Near Fresno, California
If it was stuck on a constant 10 degree advance it would run like a dog - no guts at all. I am not sure what else would happen should some other part of the module fail.
It is simple enough to troubleshoot using a timing light. Electronics generally run correctly, or not at all. If your timing is jumping around it is more likely a poor connection in your wires.
It is simple enough to troubleshoot using a timing light. Electronics generally run correctly, or not at all. If your timing is jumping around it is more likely a poor connection in your wires.
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well I figured it out. I went to put on the new ignition module and discovered that the distributor was about to fall off. I checked the timing, tightened the distributor up and then put the new ignition module on. The truck runs like a dream!!! Its like I am driving a brand new truck!!! my problem could have been the distributor being loose all along but I went ahead and put the new ignition module on since I had it. Thanks for all the advise.
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