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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

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Old Mar 8, 2018 | 09:31 PM
  #31  
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"Points.....part number B8Q12171A (DP12)
Condenser...part number C9AZ12300A (DC13A)
Yes, they are still available from Ford."

Thanks to JEFFFAFFA
 
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Old Mar 10, 2018 | 04:39 AM
  #32  
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Thanks for all the help.

I am THINKING about putting in a Pertronix electronic ignition in the truck. Its a 240.

I have done some research and pertronix says that for 4 and 6 cylinders, the coil needs to have 3 ohms. 8 cylinder engines need 1.5 ohms.

I checked the coil on the truck, and the 5 other coils i have in a box, and all of them are around 1.5 ohms.

So my question is, should my truck, with the points and condenser set up, i currently have, have a 3 or 1.5 ohm coil? I have looked and cannot find this answer.

Thanks
 

Last edited by benbuilder; Mar 10, 2018 at 05:44 AM. Reason: punctuation
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Old Mar 10, 2018 | 12:54 PM
  #33  
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With points & condenser, you want 3 ohm coil in a 4 or 6 cylinder. That includes the coil and all the wiring, plus any ballast (resistor) that came with the factory wiring harness. Generally the OEM split this between the coil itself and they added an external resistor aka "ballast" or "pink wire". So if you have a 3 ohm coil - and an 8 cylinder - then you wouldn't need or even want an additional resistance or ballast. With a 4 or 6 cylinder I believe you'd want a 3 ohm coil and the 1.4 ohm external ballast. The purpose of measuring the primary circuit resistance is to prevent excessive current flowing through the points (and coil) as they will burn up. With an 8 cylinder engine, a Pertronix Ignitor installed, you can use a 1.5 ohm coil without any additional ballast resistor. They recommend no more than 8 amps flowing through their Ignitor. If you do the math and account for a 60% duty cycle on the coil @ 14volts it comes in well under that.

One thing that will further sometimes confuse the issue is the manufacturers bypassed the external ballast resistor during actual starting/cranking, (Key turned to START) so as to provide full juice and a bit hotter spark. Releasing key to RUN means the ballast is in circuit.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2018 | 03:00 PM
  #34  
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Tedster9,

Thanks for responding.

I have a factory harness in my 1966 6 cyl.

You say "With points & condenser, you want 3 ohm coil in a 4 or 6 cylinder. That includes the coil and all the wiring, plus any ballast (resistor) that came with the factory wiring harness.Generally the OEM split this between the coil itself and they added an external resistor aka "ballast" or "pink wire".

So the 1.5 ohm coil i have installed is correct with my points and condenser? And if so, it is correct because the pink wire accounts for the other 1.5?

I am not as knowledgeable as you in this, but i am good at following directions.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2018 | 03:10 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by benbuilder
So the 1.5 ohm coil i have installed is correct with my points and condenser? And if so, it is correct because the pink wire accounts for the other 1.5?
Yep. Checked my shop manual so I believe that is correct - about 3 ohms (total) is what you want to see in a 12 volt points & condenser system. It doesn't really matter how you get there, though maybe splitting it between the two - resistor and coil - keeps the coil temperature down. This particular manual 1964, doesn't list any different type of coils between 6 and 8 cylinder engines - they are all 1.5 ohm coils - and 1.3 to 1.4 ohms resistance of the external ballast or "pink wire." Maybe they did things different in other years, but I doubt it.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2018 | 05:30 PM
  #36  
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Thanks again, could not do this hobby without all the help.
 
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