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2000 Mazda B3000, 3L, extended cab, auto. What is the minimum rotor thickness needed to machine and reuse rotors. I have been hearing slight brake squeal lately when coming to a stop and know I need pads and probably rotors machined. thanks Where is best place to find info like this?
Any good shop with the equipment can tell you if they can be repaired or need to be replaced,,,check with your friends and neighbors to find a good shop near you
"The minimum wear thickness of the rotor should be cast on the inside of the disc." That statement was taken right from a Haynes Ford Ranger repair manual, but I know it's not always true, especially if the rotors have been replaced.
You might take your rotors to a place that turns rotors and see what they say, but quite often it's cheaper (in the long run) just to buy replacement rotors. In my area, the local O'Reilly store is about the cheapest place to have rotors turned. The owner actually knows what he is doing and charges $10/rotor for cars and the price gets higher for larger trucks.
Clean all the grease out out of them. The last ones for my ranger I took to O'Reillys. and that's what they told me. It didn't matter since one rotor was too worn to turn.
I have found that some replacement rotors (made in China) are often at minimum thickness from the start.
^^^ I have also found a few of those cheapo china rotors to have cracked between the lug holes. Not very inspiring in the confidence department, after all, we are talking brake here, and just another example where "you get what you pay for".
OP, I would suggest you turn your OEM rotors, replace with a new OEM rotor, use OEM from a JY and turn it, or get picky about any replacement brand name and not the price. The min thickness you ask about should be stamped on the rotor; you can also find it in the factory service manual or for that matter, a less-than-top notch manual such as a Chiltons.
I guess I didn't look hard enough in my Haynes manual to find the spec- good to know it's there. My rotors were too rusty to see the spec stamped on them. I called a Mazda dealer and they told me it was 26mm (1.02 in.) after turning to reuse. Mine were 15/16 so I was told correctly to replace. That still seems like an awful lot of metal to throw away. My pads were worn completely away and some of the metal was too. I didn't hear a sound until about 2 weeks ago. The shop told me they don't have wear indicators on them now. They didn't put on the bill what replacement rotors they used. I may call and ask. Thanks everyone for your input. Learned some more stuff.
I guess I didn't look hard enough in my Haynes manual to find the spec- good to know it's there. My rotors were too rusty to see the spec stamped on them. I called a Mazda dealer and they told me it was 26mm (1.02 in.) after turning to reuse. Mine were 15/16 so I was told correctly to replace. That still seems like an awful lot of metal to throw away. My pads were worn completely away and some of the metal was too. I didn't hear a sound until about 2 weeks ago. The shop told me they don't have wear indicators on them now. They didn't put on the bill what replacement rotors they used. I may call and ask. Thanks everyone for your input. Learned some more stuff.
rotors need metal to act as a heat sink, when half of the rotor is worn away it gets too hot too fast. plus the metal changes some after all those heat cycles and it looses its friction ability. don't be afraid to replace "looks good" rotors, new ones will perform a whole lot better.
I guess I didn't look hard enough in my Haynes manual .........
Suggestion....put that on the trash and get your hands on the FSM. Comprehensive and it's what the pros use. Today, they are very inexpensive, thanks to ebay.
Originally Posted by dave1969
.........That still seems like an awful lot of metal to throw away..........
Until one stops and realizes just how far out the pistons in the caliper move when the brakes are applied and the pads are worn down to metal, and on top of that, add rotor thickness being degraded due to wear from pad/rotor contact or metal-on-metal. This is correctly why there is a wear limit; same concept on drum brakes and the drums.
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