I have bulk o-ring extrusion that comes on small spools like wire. I have used it a few times but prefer to use an o-ring that is a little too large of diameter and cut out a slice and glue it rather than start from scratch with the bulk.

 

What are you gluing them with? This could come in very handy as I refuse to pay Ford $7.00 for a $1.00 O ring and it can be tough to get an SAE O ring sized to perfectly match metric. So far I've made them work but being able to shorten it a hair would be awesome.

 

Never seen this before. Seems a great kit if you're in a pinch or away from home (road trip/traveling). I'm not sure what the cord material is but my OCD would never let me do this for regular replacements, especially when most o-rings are inexpensive and viton (from Bob and Clay). I might have to add this to my fly-away kit. Public reps sent (have to spread it around some more before I can get you again).

 

If you think that Bob and Clay have them cheap you should see what they can be gotten for at a local shop. I know that they're cheap to begin with but they are often half that price locally and no waiting for the mailman.

 

I think loctite 404 is what is in my dads box. Only used it a few times when what we needed was unavailable or unknown. Have a few metric and standard assortments. The times we used the cord was larger diameter or replacing a special gasket.

 

Not long ago I needed to change the orings in the water drain valve connected to the fuel filter. After trying to do things with a standard #20 torx screw driver in tight corridors I invested a few minutes to make a thumb driver and a mini breaker bar. Im glad I made them as I needed to get into the filter a second time. Also I have let two friends borrow them since...

 

Nice! I had to spend $30 to by an entire new Lisle set on a Sunday (the day when major leaks spring forth, when most businesses are closed) just for one 1/4" drive female socket T-20, so I could mounted it DIRECTLY onto a 1/4" drive ratchet without an adapter in between, as the clearance was too tight for anything else. Except your home made tool.


Torqued my stove too, because I already had that entire Lisle set... but it was missing only one socket... the T-20 socket, which is sold individually also, but not in stock at places open on a Sunday. Your solution didn't occur to me at the time, but I have done that with Allen wrenches in years past.

 

Not sure of the number on the loctite, I just know it is orange and needs to be stored in the fridge.

a short bunge strap works good for carrying batteries

 

UVCH bolt removal tool setup. Always difficult to find the right combination of tools for the difficult bolts

NINE MINUTES to remove passenger UVCH (CAC tube removed and MAP sensor loose, A/C pump bolts out and slid forward already). Includes the oil dipstick tube and bracket

I wasn't trying to cheat the time, this is where it was when I was reassembling and ran into a snag and had to remove it again.

First pic is of all the tall access areas. The second is for the really TIGHT rear bolts against the HVAC and firewall areas.

A third combination is simply a shorter main extension (if needed) for the top rear bolts under the windshield for clearance.

Wobble extensions and spring loaded impact universal 3/8" drive, cordless ratchet from Harbor Freight.






It's important to get your fingers down in the back to hold that socket in place on the bolt heads. The universal seems to be just right to get the angle to fit on straight but not too much to bind or hit the sides.

The deep well moves the pivot point up too high, even a universal there jams against the sides. The Excursion clearance back there is very tight!

The double wobble extensions setup seems to give just enough bend to the setup to fit the ratchet into the right spot.

I struggled like mad with this the first, second, and third times. Now I don't and wanted to pass along the Tool Time Tips, Ar, Ar, Ar (salute to Tim Allen)