Tools and Gadgets Thread
#16
#19
Looks like photo bucket turned **** and won’t allow links from third party sites so.... I uploaded the pics directly.
The base piece is about 4 1/4 diameter. Needs to be ground down to about 4 inches. I used an old bearing to test fit against to make sure I didn’t take too much off.
The pipe itself is 12 inches... then add a cap on the other end to beat on when seating the bearing on to the axle.
This is for the large outer axel seals. The two piece that the bearing assembly sits up against.
The base piece is about 4 1/4 diameter. Needs to be ground down to about 4 inches. I used an old bearing to test fit against to make sure I didn’t take too much off.
The pipe itself is 12 inches... then add a cap on the other end to beat on when seating the bearing on to the axle.
This is for the large outer axel seals. The two piece that the bearing assembly sits up against.
#21
Here's a cheap mod to a Harbor Freight diesel compression tester. It allowed me to fit the gauge onto the glow plug adapter.
My blow gun adapter that allows me to use the rubber nipple inside the injector cup and other hard-to-reach places on the engine.
My 5/16" semi-rigid piece of fuel line that I bought at the Irish parts store helps with removal of glow plugs.
My blow gun adapter that allows me to use the rubber nipple inside the injector cup and other hard-to-reach places on the engine.
My 5/16" semi-rigid piece of fuel line that I bought at the Irish parts store helps with removal of glow plugs.
#22
Next up is my home made top side creeper that fits into my front receiver hitch, used it when I did my uppies and again at turbo time. It is shown folded up hanging on the wall, there were pics of it in use but now gone thanks to Photobucket.
Finally is my wheel well shelf which enables me to keep a large ice chest over the wheel well where I can reach in thru my side window and get things out. It's welded 2" angle and expanded metal, two legs on the front and the back has 3 nuts welded on that line up with 3 holes in the flange at the top of the bed rail where I bolt it thru.
Finally is my wheel well shelf which enables me to keep a large ice chest over the wheel well where I can reach in thru my side window and get things out. It's welded 2" angle and expanded metal, two legs on the front and the back has 3 nuts welded on that line up with 3 holes in the flange at the top of the bed rail where I bolt it thru.
#24
#26
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: D.C. but heart's in TEXAS
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Maybe a bit "off topic" since it isn't modified, but one of the handiest tools I have when working on these trucks is a high quality Cotter Key puller / hook. I have used it for just about everything, but rarely needed for a cotter key! I just can't describe how convenient this sucker has been when doing almost anything on these trucks. Worth paying $8-12, DON'T buy a crappy Harbor Freight (I have their cheap picks which are useful too, but this one is larger and very strong). Here's a picture of a Craftsman brand one which I personally own:
I don't have a photo of another homemade tool I use, but you would laugh at it anyway. It is a double-width metal clothes hangar (like the ones used for pants with the cardboard tube going across) that has been re-bent to hook into both sides of our truck batteries. It sure helps when pulling them out or in. While a bit flimsy for such a heavy load, it has never broken or caused the battery to drop over the last 17 years.
I don't have a photo of another homemade tool I use, but you would laugh at it anyway. It is a double-width metal clothes hangar (like the ones used for pants with the cardboard tube going across) that has been re-bent to hook into both sides of our truck batteries. It sure helps when pulling them out or in. While a bit flimsy for such a heavy load, it has never broken or caused the battery to drop over the last 17 years.
#28
Here's the pics as promised. The base is 1/4" X 2" hitch tube welded into a wishbone, it slides into the front hitch which I drilled and tapped for a 3/8" bolt to take the slop out for stability. The sides are 1" X 3" 16 gauge tube, the steps are 1/2" X 1/2" 1/8" angle frames with expanded metal welded on top. The chest pad is made from two pieces of 1/8" X 1" X 2" angle that I rounded at both ends and drilled it out for the hinge pins that allow it to be adjustable and folding. I drilled two more sets of holes for removeable clevis pins to hold the chest pad at two different places when in use. The top is 3/4" plywood with a foam cover. All edges are rounded or capped and smoothed for safety. The wishbone folds up into the stair body, the chest pad folds down and it all hangs on the wall. It probably weighs 40-50 lbs, if I had to do it again I would consider aluminum. Or maybe lightening up the wishbone with 3/16",
oops almost forgot the two forward braces that keep the steps up are more 1" X 2" angle.
edit: just checked, the wishbone is 3/16"
oops almost forgot the two forward braces that keep the steps up are more 1" X 2" angle.
edit: just checked, the wishbone is 3/16"
#29
https://chrome.google.com/webstore/d...pkaon?hl=en-US
#30
This one. It installed in seconds and works great
https://chrome.google.com/webstore/d...pkaon?hl=en-US
https://chrome.google.com/webstore/d...pkaon?hl=en-US