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Question , do they make a mini starter that will work on 79 302 f100 ?
Question , is there a benefit when using long tube flowtech headers as far as removing an installing the starter ?
Question, what would be a good brand to purchase ?
Yes to the starter. Several higher end aftermarket units of course, such as Mean Green (https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/catego...ord=mean+green) and Power Master (maybe not high end, but still considered a good unit) and others. But also just factory replacements since Ford went to this type of starter, called a PMGR (permanent magnet, gear reduction) starter in the late-eighties or so.
Although I believe there were three different mounting types, the two most common variations are simply whether it's being fitted to a manual or an automatic transmission. The gear engagement depth is different.
So a starter for say, a '95 F150/Bronco with an automatic would fit your '79 302 with an automatic. Or choose whatever transmission you have currently.
Lower amperage draw, lighter and better header clearance are good reasons to swap one out. Usually wired just a little differently, it's a pretty straightforward swap.
Oh, and yes, the smaller starter is definitely easier to remove and install when using any headers. Not sure specifically about the Flowtech routing, but as a brand they're pretty good quality.
Yes to the starter. Several higher end aftermarket units of course, such as Mean Green (https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/catego...ord=mean+green) and Power Master (maybe not high end, but still considered a good unit) and others. But also just factory replacements since Ford went to this type of starter, called a PMGR (permanent magnet, gear reduction) starter in the late-eighties or so.
Although I believe there were three different mounting types, the two most common variations are simply whether it's being fitted to a manual or an automatic transmission. The gear engagement depth is different.
So a starter for say, a '95 F150/Bronco with an automatic would fit your '79 302 with an automatic. Or choose whatever transmission you have currently.
Lower amperage draw, lighter and better header clearance are good reasons to swap one out. Usually wired just a little differently, it's a pretty straightforward swap.
But don't go to the McParts store and get their lifetime starter, because those all tend to suck and not last long. An original OEM unit with 100.000 miles on it is better than the cheap parts store crap.
If you do go the McParts route, step up to one of their more expensive units.
Absolutely that!
An old greasy junkyard part is typically better than a new or rebuilt McCrappy part.
And no, we're not exaggerating either. I wish we were, but it's a fact. You can get lucky of course, and get a good one. So there's that. And lifetime warranties are very appealing, but most people get very tired of taking advantage of the warranty after the third or fourth time.
Whenever replacing a starter relay/solenoid especially, the junkyard ones (if they're original) are almost always better. The percentage of failures is absolutely epic with the store bought stuff these days.
The only thing we have not been able to track very well is the difference between a $15 store part and the $60 version. Because not many people feel like paying that much for something like a starter relay. So there's not much data yet.
It's also what makes a $5.00 used one from the junkyard more appealing even to those that hate junkyard diving.
Absolutely that!
An old greasy junkyard part is typically better than a new or rebuilt McCrappy part.
And no, we're not exaggerating either. I wish we were, but it's a fact. You can get lucky of course, and get a good one. So there's that. And lifetime warranties are very appealing, but most people get very tired of taking advantage of the warranty after the third or fourth time.
Whenever replacing a starter relay/solenoid especially, the junkyard ones (if they're original) are almost always better. The percentage of failures is absolutely epic with the store bought stuff these days.
The only thing we have not been able to track very well is the difference between a $15 store part and the $60 version. Because not many people feel like paying that much for something like a starter relay. So there's not much data yet.
It's also what makes a $5.00 used one from the junkyard more appealing even to those that hate junkyard diving.
Paul
Preaching to the choir , all new crap is junk in general on any old auto we restore , I will either buy very high quality or find a good used one .
Low profile starter from the same year mustang bolts right up as well. I had to get one to put my hooker full length headers in. It's tiny compared to our stock ones. Haven't had one issue now for almost a year.
I think the Mustang starter will fit an automatic truck only, regardless of which transmission the Mustang had. Manual trucks require a nose cone or bendix with more (or less?) depth.
And when installing the later mini starter, definitely wire it up like Henry did on his assembly lines: As a double secondary circuit system, using the two relays as intended.
You want your key switch to trigger the primary circuit on your Fender Mounted Relay, with the FMR's secondary circuit triggering the primary circuit on the Starter Mounted Relay. The SMR's secondary circuit is powered by a cable straight from the battery cable post on the FMR.
I think the Mustang starter will fit an automatic truck only, regardless of which transmission the Mustang had. Manual trucks require a nose cone or bendix with more (or less?) depth.
And when installing the later mini starter, definitely wire it up like Henry did on his assembly lines: As a double secondary circuit system, using the two relays as intended.
You want your key switch to trigger the primary circuit on your Fender Mounted Relay, with the FMR's secondary circuit triggering the primary circuit on the Starter Mounted Relay. The SMR's secondary circuit is powered by a cable straight from the battery cable post on the FMR.
Alot of guys will throw the mini starter in their car, and just run the switched hot from their existing FMR to the constant hot lug on the starter motor, and then run a jumper to energize the primary circuit of the SMR at the same time. This will work, but has been said to cause problems, and is kind of a hack-ish shortcut anyway.
Like the guys said, a cheap auto parts starter is an exercise in futility. On my F350, I went through four and finnaly bought a Powermaster. The cheap one was warranted, so now I have a brand new dust collector in my garage.
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