installing light bar with upfitter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 58
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installing light bar with upfitter
My understanding is you don't need to use a fuse, relay or switch in the wire harness for an led light bar as those are included in the upfiter system. I want to install light bars on my rear bumper. Figure 2 light bars, each 18 watts for 36 watts total, 20 feet, 10 volts worst case. grounded directly to the frame. This should work, correct?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,784
Likes: 8
From: Tomball, Tx
you are correct, no relay or fuse needed.
I installed a zROADz in bumper light bar in place of my front license plate, i used their wiring harness (kept the fuse) but did away with their relay and switch (some might say hacked their wiring harness) - i used one of the up-fitter wiring/switches under the hood (near the drivers firewall).
it was nice not having to deal w/ pulling wires (for a switch etc) thru the firewall.
I installed a zROADz in bumper light bar in place of my front license plate, i used their wiring harness (kept the fuse) but did away with their relay and switch (some might say hacked their wiring harness) - i used one of the up-fitter wiring/switches under the hood (near the drivers firewall).
it was nice not having to deal w/ pulling wires (for a switch etc) thru the firewall.
Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 40
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I ran three 12 gauge power wires to the back in a wire loom.. Managed to route it with the factory harness all the way to the rear on the driver side. I should have ran four back there..
On the driver side rear inner frame rial there is a factory ground wire coming out of the harness, that's were I tied my grounds in.. Drop your spare and you will see it..
Upfitter 1 is my aux fuel Pump
" 2 is onbourd air for bags
" 3 is back up lights BajaDesigns S2 Pro
" 4 is going to be LED bed lights
" 5 still open but will be used up front
" 6 is BajaDesigns LED ARC 30 inch racer, one bad light!!
On the driver side rear inner frame rial there is a factory ground wire coming out of the harness, that's were I tied my grounds in.. Drop your spare and you will see it..
Upfitter 1 is my aux fuel Pump
" 2 is onbourd air for bags
" 3 is back up lights BajaDesigns S2 Pro
" 4 is going to be LED bed lights
" 5 still open but will be used up front
" 6 is BajaDesigns LED ARC 30 inch racer, one bad light!!
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Cross-Country
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 58
Likes: 4
My plan is, upfitter switch
1 and 2 for two different garage door openers
3 front bumper light bar
4 rear bumper light bar
5 bed lights
6 high idle
I'll run a dedicated 12 volt line to the bed for a spare power outlet using 8 awg wire which should cover up to an 18 amp draw which is way more than I need. I've decided to use 12 awg wire for the 2 light bars on the rear bumper which total 72 watts (changed my mind on the lights). This gives me a small margin.
The power converters arrive Monday to reduce 13 volts to 3 volts for the garage openers. $7 for 2 converters was cheaper than I could buy the individual parts for.
1 and 2 for two different garage door openers
3 front bumper light bar
4 rear bumper light bar
5 bed lights
6 high idle
I'll run a dedicated 12 volt line to the bed for a spare power outlet using 8 awg wire which should cover up to an 18 amp draw which is way more than I need. I've decided to use 12 awg wire for the 2 light bars on the rear bumper which total 72 watts (changed my mind on the lights). This gives me a small margin.
The power converters arrive Monday to reduce 13 volts to 3 volts for the garage openers. $7 for 2 converters was cheaper than I could buy the individual parts for.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 121
Likes: 1
I was supplying power to a Baja Designs 30" Arc bar using AUX 6. That bar pulled 14 amps and was triggered with the high beams. Worked great. I returned the 30" since it was not the Light I ordered and in a couple weeks I should have the new bar which is a 40" in the "HI-Power Config."
The new bar will draw 33 Amps and uses dual wire harnesses to carry the current. I'm planning on feeding the second harness with AUX 5 so I will flip both up fitter switches (5&6) to Feed the bar.
I'll update with how it turns out.
Aux 4 feeds a couple flush mount reverse lights that are also triggered by engaging reverse. So far it's been great but I can't take credit for that install.
The new bar will draw 33 Amps and uses dual wire harnesses to carry the current. I'm planning on feeding the second harness with AUX 5 so I will flip both up fitter switches (5&6) to Feed the bar.
I'll update with how it turns out.
Aux 4 feeds a couple flush mount reverse lights that are also triggered by engaging reverse. So far it's been great but I can't take credit for that install.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 121
Likes: 1
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Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From: Nebraska
garage door opener control?
My plan is, upfitter switch
1 and 2 for two different garage door openers
3 front bumper light bar
4 rear bumper light bar
5 bed lights
6 high idle
I'll run a dedicated 12 volt line to the bed for a spare power outlet using 8 awg wire which should cover up to an 18 amp draw which is way more than I need. I've decided to use 12 awg wire for the 2 light bars on the rear bumper which total 72 watts (changed my mind on the lights). This gives me a small margin.
The power converters arrive Monday to reduce 13 volts to 3 volts for the garage openers. $7 for 2 converters was cheaper than I could buy the individual parts for.
1 and 2 for two different garage door openers
3 front bumper light bar
4 rear bumper light bar
5 bed lights
6 high idle
I'll run a dedicated 12 volt line to the bed for a spare power outlet using 8 awg wire which should cover up to an 18 amp draw which is way more than I need. I've decided to use 12 awg wire for the 2 light bars on the rear bumper which total 72 watts (changed my mind on the lights). This gives me a small margin.
The power converters arrive Monday to reduce 13 volts to 3 volts for the garage openers. $7 for 2 converters was cheaper than I could buy the individual parts for.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 235
Likes: 2
I was supplying power to a Baja Designs 30" Arc bar using AUX 6. That bar pulled 14 amps and was triggered with the high beams. Worked great. I returned the 30" since it was not the Light I ordered and in a couple weeks I should have the new bar which is a 40" in the "HI-Power Config."
The new bar will draw 33 Amps and uses dual wire harnesses to carry the current. I'm planning on feeding the second harness with AUX 5 so I will flip both up fitter switches (5&6) to Feed the bar.
I'll update with how it turns out.
Aux 4 feeds a couple flush mount reverse lights that are also triggered by engaging reverse. So far it's been great but I can't take credit for that install.
The new bar will draw 33 Amps and uses dual wire harnesses to carry the current. I'm planning on feeding the second harness with AUX 5 so I will flip both up fitter switches (5&6) to Feed the bar.
I'll update with how it turns out.
Aux 4 feeds a couple flush mount reverse lights that are also triggered by engaging reverse. So far it's been great but I can't take credit for that install.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 121
Likes: 1
You're right, I could probably get away with running the two harnesses on just No. 6 but it's getting a little to close to the Max for my comfort. I checked current with a clamp meter and each harness pulls 17-18 Amps or 35 ish total.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,424
Likes: 12
From: BC Canada
Per SVE Bbullitin Q-252 upfitter said 1-4 are 25 amp rated, 5 and 6 are 40 amp. I would use 5 or 6 for really big light bars, compressors, or power ports.
If your running out of up fitters, hi idle and backup lights can be on the same switch for example. As high idle requires park and ebrake to activate it. Just an idea for what it's worth.
I will use 4 for hi idle because that's what's been done on my previous trucks so my memory which is not so good has something reliable.
Plan for front lights 1 and 2, 3 backup LEDs, 4 hi idle, 5 power port in box, 6 air compressor.
The other tidbit is 5 and 6 can be set ignition on only or always on, so kind of handy for quite operation of say a small inverter if one needed to outside Genny hours for example. You would have to use at own risk.
I sure hope Santa send me my labels for the switches
If your running out of up fitters, hi idle and backup lights can be on the same switch for example. As high idle requires park and ebrake to activate it. Just an idea for what it's worth.
I will use 4 for hi idle because that's what's been done on my previous trucks so my memory which is not so good has something reliable.
Plan for front lights 1 and 2, 3 backup LEDs, 4 hi idle, 5 power port in box, 6 air compressor.
The other tidbit is 5 and 6 can be set ignition on only or always on, so kind of handy for quite operation of say a small inverter if one needed to outside Genny hours for example. You would have to use at own risk.
I sure hope Santa send me my labels for the switches
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 132
Likes: 2
From: New Hampshire
My understanding is you don't need to use a fuse, relay or switch in the wire harness for an led light bar as those are included in the upfiter system. I want to install light bars on my rear bumper. Figure 2 light bars, each 18 watts for 36 watts total, 20 feet, 10 volts worst case. grounded directly to the frame. This should work, correct?
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