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I would get the batteries charged, TEST the alternator (could be showing signs of failure) and make sure where ever you get the alt check checks the whole thing (rectifier, diodes ect) battery light meants one of two things generally
1: battery(ies) are showing signs of failure
2: altanator is beginning to go in some way
3: combination of both
you should see close to (in the 14.x range) 14.5 when running and charging. so with your numbers im going to say the alt in your truck is on its way out and I WOULD be changing it ASAP before it leaves you stranded....also I would consider a volt metere like what I have in my truck. makes checking voltage easy mine sits just below the cup holder in the linked pic
Alternator. Running should see 14.1 or so with good batteries. Pull alternator and have it tested. Check wiring to alternator and battery connections first though.
If you have a multi-meter you can test a battery while running,
if you don't get 14V + you can bank it it being your alternator or, possible one of your electrical connections.
So my battery dash light came on yesterday.
Popped in Advanced Auto for alternator check.
Results where bad battery's. I replaced Batts just last month with Wally Batts.
Scanguage II only shows 11.6-11.9 volts while running.
Wally says Batts just need charged.
So what has everyone's experience been with this battery light on??
Did Advance auto pull the alternator to check it? 11.6 to 11.9 is about right when glow plugs are activated, but alternator is still charging so the battery light should not be ON.
Last alternator I had check at the parts store they told me is was OK and was putting out 12.2 volts. I argued and the manager finally came and agreed with me it should be just north of 14 volts for this Ford product. Purchased another alternator and truck still running strong.
Don't know if Wally does a load test on the batteries but it's the only way to validate their performance, period. And the alternator needs to be removed, tested on a bench to verify it is working properly.
Don't know if Wally does a load test on the batteries but it's the only way to validate their performance, period. And the alternator needs to be removed, tested on a bench to verify it is working properly.
I have a voltage meter in my cigarette lighter that feeds me data on my batteries and alternator. When the batteries topped out at 12.3 and dropped from there while my alternator put out 14.2 and I got a hard start at 30F I had no doubt in my mind where my problem was. If my truck is running and I'm not getting north of 14V at my battery posts that leads me towards my alternator, particularly if I have new batteries.
Same happened to me early this year. For me it was my alternator ... specifically the regulator wire which appeared to be shorting out. At first we put in three replacement alternators ... all three bench tested OK ahead of time but failed when installed in the truck. Rather than tracing and troubleshooting the original regulator wire through the crowded wiring harness, our fix was to install a new regulator wire directly from the junction box to the alternator. It's almost been a year now and this solution fixed the battery light and charging issue and have not had any problems since.
Click on my signature link "Bad Regulator Wire" for the full write-up.
Last edited by sunuvabug; Nov 24, 2017 at 09:12 AM.
Reason: Added Link
Ok thanks for the input. I did charge each battery individually yesterday.
Will do a cold start after while and check batteries with vt meter at the posts.
My scanguage voltage reading was EO warm. No no glow plugs where pulling it down.
When my alternator went bad, I got a battery light on and the voltage gauge was reading way lower than normal. Also the lights were extremely dim (found that out at night when I could barely see coming home) Took my alternator into battery barn and it was completely dead, not charging at all. Slapped a new alternator on and all was good.
Ok thanks for the input. I did charge each battery individually yesterday. Will do a cold start after while and check batteries with vt meter at the posts.
My scanguage voltage reading was EO warm. No, no glow plugs where pulling it down.
I would have someone help you start it BUT put your multimeter on the back of the alternator. This will show you the voltage your alternator is putting out BEFORE the GP's (especially on a cold start) have an opportunity to suck the voltage down. Then do the same once the GP's shut off.