My other thread seems to have died so here's a new one. I have the water pump out, this site is a great resource! I took some pictures of the engine where coolant leaked. Before I put it all back together I wanted to ensure that a new pump will solve my problem. I want to make sure the leak isn't coming from somewhere else. Please take a look at the pictures and give me your opinion. The spray on the hood seems to have some degree of oil to it. Belt spray on hood.

Is there a seal/ gasket for this tube? Name of tube/ part?
Also, I'm using Rotella ELC coolant, the red kind. Is this right? Doesn't seem to be.

Thanks for looking!

 

The tube is the engine to heater tube assembly, Ford 3C3Z8592AB. Ford part sell for $30-35, Dorman part about half. There is an O-Ring that I don't have the part number to. The funky thing about them is you need to be very careful removing them. They corroded at the steel/aluminum junction and when getting them out some people break off the aluminum housing. So that becomes a $500 part plus a crank seal.

 

Looks like the leak may have come from here. You can see the belt spray on the water pump.
Could a leak from here cause all the spray I have in the engine compartment?

 

It's really hard to say about the water pump, but I'd replace it while I was that far in AND throw that huge chunk of plastic known as the "fan stator" in the "to be replaced at a later time" file. It's just not needed and you'll be amazed at how easy things are to work on in front of the motor now.

 

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Thanks for the advice Tim!!! It sure makes it nicer!

 

That's where mine was leaking from, but it was just a drip for me (no spray onto engine)

 

When my water pump leaked it was also just a drip. Very little mess and mostly on the harmonic balancer wheel. I think the hose above is the main trouble. I'd replace the pump anyway though.

What is the purpose of the stator - protect the fan from road debris?

 

That is a bad pump. All I have seen either leaked there or bearings are grinding and it’s slinging grease from the shaft seal. I’d drop the radiator back in place (no need to bolt it up or hook up trans lines and stuff or install the fan or belt), hook up the hoses, rent a pressure tester and pump the system up. Spray soapy water on anything suspect, like that metal tube and the big doughnut gasket between the intake and front cover and look for bubbles. You can also double check your pump installation. If it’s good, button it up knowing you have fixed it. If you get bubbles, you know you have more work to do.

On a related note, my local O’Rileys tool loaner program has a nice kit for coolant system testing. Unfortunately the degas bottle adapter for our trucks is in a separate “accessory” kit, so you have to “buy” both at a little over $200. They way they work you basically buy the tool and they reorder another one if you don’t bring it back in three days. If you bring it back the same day (before they process the transaction) it won’t even show up on your card statement. Keep it 1-2 days and you will see the charge on the day you picked it up and 3-4 days later you will see the credit.

I’m not sure how the other places work because ORileys is handy for me and the quality of their loaner tools is good.

 

Autozone was the same but I did not take mine back because I wanted to add it
on the collection. I already had the pressure tester form Snap On so I only needed
the Degas tank adaptor. Also if you can get your hands on a RadVac you can pull
a vacuum on the system and find other leaks. that is how I found a questionable
sealing blue tube to EGR cooler seal.

Also the RadVac makes is nice when refilling the system. It helps remove most
if not all of the air from the system.