Ford F3 Project
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More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 714
Likes: 257
From: Sunshine Coast, BC
I got a front disc conversion kit on the truck already, and i'll be using the 8.8 out of the white F150 donor truck, which has drums.
The hope is that the master i have here is a front rear split so i can simply rob all i need from the F150.
The hope is that the master i have here is a front rear split so i can simply rob all i need from the F150.
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More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 714
Likes: 257
From: Sunshine Coast, BC
Can anyone identify this part? I have a symmmetrical pair of them, and i'm not sure what they are. I suspected they might be the rear bumper mounts but that doesn't appear to be the case.
Also how does the top part of the handbrake handle bolt down? It seems to want to bolt into the two holes in the firewall below the hood assist spring holes, but that leaves the top floating in space behind where the gauges want to be. I can't find any information on how it's supposed to look, and i can only presume i'm missing some sort of bracket that bolts to the bottom of the dash or the side cowl.
Marmon-Herrington Man
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,986
Likes: 444
From: Central Illinois
There should be a captive bracket up in the corner that the handle bolts to. There are four bolts. The uppers are not pleasant to get to. I parted out a ‘50 in the past few weeks and struggled with the uppers. Sorry no pictures.
Your picture looks like a bumper bracket, but aftermarket. Stu
Your picture looks like a bumper bracket, but aftermarket. Stu
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More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 714
Likes: 257
From: Sunshine Coast, BC
No it has the stock running board horns. And it doesnt appear to fit any of the holes at the back of the frame. Though the truck was rear ended at some point and that area's a little messed up, but nothing seemed to even remotely line up.
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More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 714
Likes: 257
From: Sunshine Coast, BC
The bed wood flanges were all held on with those same bolts, so it seemed to fit to me. Probably just a farmyard fix then.
It does have some booger welded tie down bars on the back (welded over the tailgate hinge holes, no less) with coach bolt holes in them. I'll see if the mystery part matches the holes in the tie down bars.
It does have some booger welded tie down bars on the back (welded over the tailgate hinge holes, no less) with coach bolt holes in them. I'll see if the mystery part matches the holes in the tie down bars.
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More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 714
Likes: 257
From: Sunshine Coast, BC
Well, spent the last while trying to figure out how to do the kingpin bushings/reaming etc. Best local quote i got was $1950 plus tax as a blue sky estimate, and for that price i could get an adjustable reamer and press and still have enough left over for a nice set of cylinder heads, so **** that. Guess i'll be doing that myself.
Did get the motor running though. Needs some tuning, but the longtubes sound grand, though the starter sticks and kills the motor after a few seconds, so add that to the pile, why not.
Did get the motor running though. Needs some tuning, but the longtubes sound grand, though the starter sticks and kills the motor after a few seconds, so add that to the pile, why not.
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More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 714
Likes: 257
From: Sunshine Coast, BC
https://files.facepunch.com/forum/upload/228931/a52a83c6-5d24-4f75-8e35-18640edc21e9/witness_me.mp4
She lives and breathes. This forum doesn't support webm embedding (thanks vbulletin.) so you'll have to click through the link yourself.
For a junkyard motor i got for free and slapped together with nothing but book learnin', it's pretty healthy. Down the line, I can't wait to get a proper set of heads and a bump stick on there. 400 crank horsepower or bust.
She lives and breathes. This forum doesn't support webm embedding (thanks vbulletin.) so you'll have to click through the link yourself.
For a junkyard motor i got for free and slapped together with nothing but book learnin', it's pretty healthy. Down the line, I can't wait to get a proper set of heads and a bump stick on there. 400 crank horsepower or bust.
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More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 714
Likes: 257
From: Sunshine Coast, BC
Brake booster, pedal box and clutch master is in. I'm going to have to basically make new pedals, since the brake pedal is right bang in the middle of where the column goes, and lengthen the pushrod, as the ranger booster puts the top of it's travel about halfway through the where clutch pedal stroke is.
The fun is compounded by the fact that it's now all iced up and such. At least it stopped raining inside the tent from condensation
Knuckle Bandage Sales Rep
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,676
Likes: 1,245
From: Maine
Hi Steve,
That is exactly what mine looked like on the '49.
I cleaned it up and tried like heck to salvage it. Took a file and smoothed over the ridge, shaped it back down where it was pushed up. But the fact was it would always have a slop area that tightening down the draglink springs would not take up. I would bind up during a steering wheel turn when the front axle was off the ground, so I figured that all I was going to do was have play and binding in the wheel during real driving conditions. The ball should be totally round and have full diameter in order to get precise and even steering.
So I broke down and bought a new one off E-bay. I watched several sellers over the course of a few weeks until finally one of them put a 'best offer' feature on their listing. I think I bought it for $80 with shipping. I see that someone there has one for $93 with shipping right now. That is about as good as it gets unless you have a lot of time to find alternatives.
I don't have a welder so that is the path I took.
The aftermarket one fit good and seemed to be as strong as the original.
Hope this helps, Tom
That is exactly what mine looked like on the '49.
I cleaned it up and tried like heck to salvage it. Took a file and smoothed over the ridge, shaped it back down where it was pushed up. But the fact was it would always have a slop area that tightening down the draglink springs would not take up. I would bind up during a steering wheel turn when the front axle was off the ground, so I figured that all I was going to do was have play and binding in the wheel during real driving conditions. The ball should be totally round and have full diameter in order to get precise and even steering.
So I broke down and bought a new one off E-bay. I watched several sellers over the course of a few weeks until finally one of them put a 'best offer' feature on their listing. I think I bought it for $80 with shipping. I see that someone there has one for $93 with shipping right now. That is about as good as it gets unless you have a lot of time to find alternatives.
I don't have a welder so that is the path I took.
The aftermarket one fit good and seemed to be as strong as the original.
Hope this helps, Tom
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More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 714
Likes: 257
From: Sunshine Coast, BC
Oh yeah i have a pile of parts ready to order when i get my next paycheque, amoung them a new pitman arm. But with currency conversion, tax, duty, the "**** you, we can" customs charge etc, it'll come out to about 150 bucks, whereas the replacement lower ball would be 30ish.
Basically i was really asking if anyone's tried it, as i suspect the thing might be specially tempered and welding might make it dangerously brittle. Though it'd still be cheaper to make a little gasfire soaking pit and quenching it afterwards.
Basically i was really asking if anyone's tried it, as i suspect the thing might be specially tempered and welding might make it dangerously brittle. Though it'd still be cheaper to make a little gasfire soaking pit and quenching it afterwards.
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More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 714
Likes: 257
From: Sunshine Coast, BC
Started mocking up the brake pedal. It's really really tight in there, with the brake pad horozontal, it almost hits both the gas pedal and the column at the same time, and the gas pedal feels really really low down compared to the other pedals. And the clutch pedal is also directly over the headlight dimmer switch.
Anyone have any advice on pedal placements? I'm getting to something ok, but any wisdom on what works and doesn't work would be appreciated.
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More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 714
Likes: 257
From: Sunshine Coast, BC
Pedal box is done and adjusted up. Gotta figure out the loud pedal but that's easy.
Next big problem is the kingpins. The flange on top is making it difficult. A buddy of mine was an old ford tech and was super ticked that they had a cap on top, as how they delt with "regular" pins back in the day was just cutting the thrust bearing, popping the hub off and driving the pin out with a sledgehammer. No such luck here. Should i even bother trying the air chisel? Not sure how else to get that **** out of there.
Ignition Switch Bezel | Dennis Carpenter Ford Restoration Parts
Also are '51/'52 ignition bezels compatable with the '49? They look a lot nicer and the '48's aren't available.