When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
motor's in, front end suspension is rebuilt, sheet metal is refinshed on the underside, frame's painted up until the cab, got a seat, replaced the drums with discs and so on.
All that's left before it can drive away is the rear end swap, refurbishing the frame behind the cab and bed frame, floor repair, wiring, plumbing, and figuring out the driveshaft. Not happening tomorrow but i think its' coming along well.
Does anyone know if the '51/'52 inner fenders are interchangable with the 49?
Mine are pretty thrashed, some mensa candidate bolted horns to them and used them as steps, so they're severely cracked along the core support holes and have holes were the horns were bolted on. I have the chunks that once filled the holes but the tabs that bolt to the frame are just gone for good measure. It's fixable, but boy howdy.
Found a few on craigslit, but somehow they're all '51 panels, and the shop manual and repro catalogues shows those as different parts. Anyone ever tried these on a '48-'50?
Outer width of the donor's body is roughly the same as the outside of the fender wells, figured ford was ford and they'd use the same dimensional template all those years on and it'd be close enough. Noticed a lot of grandfathered in type stuff like that while tearing down both trucks.
Around here it'd be real rough finding an explorer rear end with the limited slip 3.55's that the white truck has. Spline count is different so i couldn't even save the center section. I'll measure it later today, fingers crossed i guess.
Should be firing it up this week, figure those longtubes are gonna be on there for a long time before they come off for any reason, may as well make them nice 'n shiny before i tape them on. Can't have rusty junk on my rusty junk.
Looks like a great project and youre making great progress. Have you measured the rear axle on the f150? I think it could be too wide for the f3.
Alright so the rear end on the F150 is roughly 65 inches at the hub face where it meets the wheel, whereas the popular explorer rear ends (according to the internet consensus) is about 59.5". So let's round that out and say 2.5" extra on each side compared to the explorer 8.8. The width between the inside flange of the fenders is about 75 inches, which isn't bad. With the explorer rear end there's 7.5" inches between the hub face and outside fender, 5" extra width means on each side we eat 2.5 of that, leaving us with 5". Currently i have some stock 15" steelies with the usual 3.75" backspacing. Not sure how far from the hub to the outside of the tire they are, as long as it's less than that 5", perhaps with a FOS to account for sidewall flex, it'll be alright.
Alright just did a little more. Inside of the fender wells on the F3 is 75 inches, inside of the fender wells on the donor truck is also 75 inches, meaning that yup, that same overall width never changed. I think we're good.
Does anyone know anything about ford brake booster alternatives?
I'm using the pedal assembly from the '89 F150 donor truck. Frame, booster, clutch master etc. However the booster is unreasonably huge, at 12" wide, and getting it to make friends with the hood assist springs is not happening.
I thought foxbodies might be a good source, like this 7" guy here, but the bolt pattern differs pretty heavily. Usually if i don't know **** i just google around until i have a good enough lead, but all i can turn up is the same fat frisbee i'm trying to replace. I have basically infinite depth to work with, and the less width the better. I'm modifying the pedals no matter what so it doesn't have to be exact, just so long as it's narrow enough to get the clutch master to fit on the firewall and the bracket roughly centered with the column.
Went junkyard diving for a suitable master. Ranger pattern was only 1/2" off, and is also a dual unit meaning it's better than the original while nearly half the size. Tomorrow the serious stuff starts.
I have to figure out if the brake split is front rear or diagonal to get the proper proportioning valves though. Not much material on that freely available.
I'm honestly not sure, that's what i'm trying to figure out right now.
I'm fairly certain that it was front/rear split, but a friend who's helping out and is an ex auto instructor is willing to bet it's diagonal split which is handled by the ABS block which would mean that the drum proportioning valves, redisdual pressure etc would be outside the master and in/past the ABS unit. Didn't help that that unit came out of a wrecking yard's stock so i couldn't look at the system as installed. Though i'm putting my money on it being front rear because a later ranger at the yard had one line going to the rear drums out of the ABS block. But it's something we gotta know for sure.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
