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In case of light switch failure the switch can be jumped. I was out of town about 15 miles away when my light switch failed. The stem came completely out of the switch. Usually you would have to push the button on the switch to remove it. I could not get the lights to come on. I bought some 16 gauge wire from a nearby store thinking I could get 12 volts directly from the battery to the headlights. I still would not have taillights though. Then I though maybe I can "jump" the connector to the switch. I disconnected the wiring to the switch and with a 3 inch piece of the wire I stuck one end into the 12 volt lead. With the other end I probed the other slots until the lights came on. Then with another 3 inch piece of wire I stuck one end into the same positive slot and the other end into the slot with brown wires and the taillights came on. Bingo! The brake lights also worked but I believe they are on another circuit. There was no dash lights but I was ok with that. So I was able to drive home and replace the bad switch and all is well now.
Necessity is the mother of invention. Nice job. I just put a relay set up on my headlights because they were flickering badly. Relays worked beautifully. Nice strong beams, and NO FLICKERING!
In case of light switch failure the switch can be jumped. I was out of town about 15 miles away when my light switch failed.
The stem (shaft) came completely out of the headlamp switch. Usually you would have to push the button on the switch to remove it.
I could not get the lights to come on.
The headlamp switch **** & shaft is a one piece assembly (C8TZ-11661-A = 1968/72 F100/350 & 1969/74 Econoline.). Sometimes the **** will come off the shaft.
Usually you have to remove the ****/shaft by pressing on the headlamp switches button, but you do not have to press on the button to reinstall it.
You just push it back in...and there's a "click" when it locks into place.