Idm code
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I did all the tests and the contribution test comes back with the #8 cylinder. I have an AE injector on the way. I am also going to pull the valve cover to check proper oil flow. I am starting to hear a clicking coming from the #8 injector I believe so I think it might be faulty. They all pass the buzz test great.
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I put the AE in and it runs much better as opposed to the knock the AD was giving me. After multiple starts and runs, the light is gone. It did come back on on cold start after work today but it took about fifteen to twenty seconds so I am gonna wait until the air is completely purged out to see if that is throwing the code. I will play with the big connector to see if that is testing out. I would like to try to find an original black CPS.
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I have tested the wires and even done the wiggle test to no avail. The last resort I tried tonight was an ir thermometer gun. I found that my passenger exhaust was at 120 while my driver exhaust was at 170-180. Tomorrow I am going to pull the passenger valve cover and check all connections and make sure that the wiring is all good. I am going to be blown away if it is unplugged or frayed. The truck has had so much power and ran so good that it would make no sense if that bank was out. This is for an excursion so the passenger side valve cover is especially a pain because of the extra hvac. I will post up my results this weekend because I might not get to it tomorrow.
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Well truck decided to kick me in the sack on Friday night. I went to work and it was running good still had code but running good. I got in it after a 10 1/2 hour day at work so about 6 30 at night and it started up great. I let it warm up a few minutes and took off for home. Got maybe a quarter mile from work to a four way intersection and she started to buck hard and died. I tried restarting and it would not fire. I watched the infinity as I cranked it and it would not build up injector pressure. So after being towed home by my dad's Duramax I haven't been to happy with my truck and kind of have been having dreams of pushing it off a cliff. I am going to check CPS and metal ring on ipr. I am thinking the idm took a dump on me.
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I didn't want to be the guy to not update. I replaced the idm with an alliant power idm from Riffraff and it got rid of the code and she runs great, no codes. I have driven it the last two days and ran every diagnostic KOEO, KOER, buzz, cylinder contribution, and glow plugs test and they all passed with no codes. Also believe it died because it ran out of fuel at the 1/4 tank mark. I will be doing the hutch and harpoon mod come spring. For now I will just fill it up at 1/2 a tank.
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