Truck is a 2002 Ex 7.3. Only mods are up pipes, riffraff fuel regulator, oil crossover, anti surge wheel, ceramic coated up pipes, coolant and trans filters, 6.0 trans cooler, overboost fooler, php Hydra chip with do tuner infinity for monitoring. Now on to the meat and potatoes. I just put in new valve cover gaskets on both sides, new harness, all 8 new injectors from full force, all ad. I thought the #8 ad would be fine instead of ae because of riffraff mod. New glow plugs, dropped the tanks and cleaned filter screens, new fuel filter, new Terminator hpop, new Ford icp, new icp pigtail, new Ford ipr. Everything has been bought from riffraff so no aftermarket stuff. Last night I installed new dark blue CPS. I am getting the idm code on as soon as I start the truck. I have done a buzz test and it all comes back great and clears the code. I have done cylinder balance test and it comes back with #8 cylinder but I heard that could be from switching to ad and no big deal. I have done KOEO and no codes. I have done KOER no codes. When I do the buzz test it will clear the idm code and when I restart it after that the code will stay off until I go to restart it after it has been sitting for awhile. I am confused because I read on the forums that a buzz test should expose the code but all my injectors buzz loud and great. It actually keeps the code cleared. I am at a loss of what to do next. Sorry if this is scrambled I am typing on my phone at work.

 

Truck runs great and has tons of power. That is why I am really at a loss. It starts up right away too. No long cranks or problems.

 

Moved to the 7.3L PSD forum.

Stewart

 

I've never heard that a buzz test will clear any IDM code. I think the code is actually stored in the PCM memory, for a very long time. After a buzz test the IDM will report any new codes found to the PCM. Have you simply just cleared the code then drive.

 

I have tried to clear the codes and engine light stays on. Only way to make it disappears is a buzz test then start it and drive like that. No engine light while driving if I do it that way. It is just bugging me that at every start after it sits it does the light. I just got done at work and did a buzz test before starting the truck and no light after startup. I am curious if putting an ad injector in place of the ae is messing with the idm at all. This light also appears on stock with no tunes so I ruled that out early on. On a side note, I really like the Hydra chip. Well worth the investment. I also just used the code reader to read codes and the idm code wasn't there after this buzz startup. I am curious what would make it appear on a cold start out of the blue.

 

Drove it home and was running great all the way home. Parked it and I let it sit for a minute. Then I cycled the glow plugs and started it up. It took about five seconds of running and the code came back. I would think that if the buzz test passes then it can't be the injectors because I thought the idm would see if the connections were bad or what not. I am at the point of make it or break it because I am throwing way too much money at it. I love my ex but lately I am hating it for being a money sucking machine.

 

So this is AFTER you got it running and tuner working with new injectors? Referencing your other thread...

 

Yeah, it runs great and drives great. This code won't go away though. I just bought an AE injector to put back in the #8 cylinder on the way. I figured it was worth a try because it is the only out of place item. I didn't know if those had a code in the pcm that could be tripping the light. I don't want to buy an idm because I think mine is good and working.

 

I would put a clamp on my wallet right freaking now. If you slow down and sort it out, you can solve the problem without blasting wildly with the Buck$Zooka. An IDM code does not have to be an injector or valve cover connection problem... it could be something as simple as a little corrosion on a contact in another connector... or a chafed wire at the 40-pin connector vibrating and shorting.

Know what it is through testing and observation before removing the trigger guard on the doomsday weapon.

 

That picture is exactly how I am feeling. I did pull the 40 pin and wrap it with electrical tape. I cleaned all the contacts with a wire brush and electric cleaner. Also the valve cover connector got the same treatment. It didn't change anything. I examined them for any bad wires. I noticed a little starting to rub on the 40 and that is why I put electrical tape on it to keep it from getting to the wires inside. Is there a different program for an ae injector over an ad?

 

What's the code?

 

Go to GB Remanufacturing web site. Click on Tech Blogs, then you can scroll down to the info you might need. Great site for info on our IDMs.

 

It seems to me the IDM code just tells you there is a code stored in the IDM. You need that code to help pin point the issue. There is nothing in programming that would cause an AD injector in #8 to throw a code. A bad injector coil is also possible but near impossible to find without pulling the IDM codes, not just clearing them.

Feel free to tell me i'm full of crap.

 

Test from the IDM connector.

 

I'm trying to remember which test isolates the IDM codes. A generic IDM code just means you need to run a more thorough test to isolate which IDM code. I thought KOER or buzz might have done it - but I guess it's the Cylinder Contribution Test.