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Yes. I think you have two solenoids for the start circuit in your year. One on the fender well and then the one on the starter. Both can be tested while on the truck with a multimeter.
If you have the one on the fender well it is easiest to start there with troubleshooting. You should have constant 12v on one large lead then when you try to crank then you should have 12v on the other large lead. Start there and let us know what you get.
Throwing it out there because I'm buzzed, but, when the gpr-led mod was the next best thing to sliced bread, when I did that mod, I also installed an led onto the starter relay, for this very reason
One starter relay on the fender, one solenoid on the starter. "Just clicking" is the relay engaging, but the solenoid doesn't receive enough juice to engage, and the starter doesn't have enough juice to crank... or other possibilities are at play.
Make certain you have good connection on both ends of each battery cable. The fastest/easiest way to check if this is a power problem instead of a relay/solenoid problem is to put a volt meter positive probe on the power side of the starter relay, and the ground probe on the engine block. Short the two large posts on the relay (engine clear, key out of the ignition) and watch your voltage. If it plummets during the click - bad connections to the batteries.
The overwhelming most common starter problem is bad batteries and/or bad connections between the batteries and the rest of the truck.
The overwhelming most common starter problem is bad batteries and/or bad connections between the batteries and the rest of the truck.
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A friend of mine that was a fleet mechanic for a lot of years told me that the first thing he checks with a finicky engine is the battery and cable connections. Quite often the end of fix.