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There's another post on here similar to my problem, but I have already did the testing procedures that was recommended and still having problems. It's a 1984 F150 with a 351W H.O. Last week I went to start it and it just sorted of hummed and barley cranked, it would not crank it enough to get started. I tested the battery and all cables and connections they were OK, so I figuered it was the starter!
I put a remanufactuered starter on it last Friday, it started right up. Drove it all weekend and to work today everything fine. Went to start it after work and the starter was making a grinding noise like it wasent meshing with the flexplate right. Finally got it started when I got home (20 minute drive) went to start it, back to the same thing humming and hardly turning it over, let it cool down now it will start but for a couple seconds the starter stays engaged once running, then will kick out. Any advice? I dont want to tear up a flexplate! Could a solenoid cause these problems? Any help appreciated...... with christmas i'm short on cash and dont want to start replacing parts if not needed, i'm wondering if I even needed a new starter now! Many Thanks!
Carl
That starter doesn't have a solenoid - the motor pushes the drive gear out. Your relay (on the fender) is probably bad. When it welds itself together, the starter continues to run. When it makes a poor connection on a previously welded spot, the starter doesn't get enough current to turn. Buy a new one ($12) and when you're sure it's fixed, break the old one apart & look at it.
Yeah, I guess I meant to say relay instead of solenoid, but I
did mean the thing on the fender that the cables hook to. Is there anyway to test them or bypass? Or just something to replace and see if it works.
Thanks!
Carl
You can test/bypass by jumping the 2 biggest terminals with a heavy peice of clean metal like the shaft of a big screwdriver or the handle of a crescent wrench. If your truck is manual, make SURE it's in Neutral with the e-brake set, or it'll jump when the starter hits. If it works when jumped, you can be sure the relay is the problem. If not, start checking the heavy wires that run down to the starter, frame, & block.
Well, I put another starter on it same thing! When i bypass the relay same thing! All cables look good, at least from the outside insulation, they were all replaced last spring. When it cools down (about 1/2 hour)it starts right up. My next step i'm going to try is timing? It runs OK once started though I dont notice any differance at all in it's running! Does the same thing when i put a battery out of another car in it too. Guess i'll keep checking........ things. Any other suggestions?
Thanks!
Carl
Do you have headers? These sometimes put too much heat in the starter, making it fail. If you don't have headers, do you have an exhaust leak around the manifold? I have seen a leak puff hot exhaust down on the starter, causing the same thing.
Well...... it appears I ran into getting 2 bad remanufactuered starters from the parts store. I took both back and they bench tested bad, on the 3rd one now. It's been about 5 days and starting fine. Always something though...... I clipped a deer the other day now i'll be fixing a fender and grill! Thanks for your help!
Carl
I'm on my 3rd bad starter in a row from Advance - the second one melted the battery cable & ruined the relay. This one doesn't throw the bendix out when it's cold, so I'll swap it again one of these days... It sure is nice having a manual EFI that'll roll-start even on a SLIGHT hill!
I see that ya have problems with ya truck and sure enough, I've had the same problem. The first thing to check is the resistance of all the wires. if the resistance is good then U need to find out why is the starter being overpowered and burning out. U can change the Starter Solenoid all day until you're blue in the face but won't solve any of your problems. If the resistance is low and U don't have corroded wires, suspect the Ignition switch as the culprit. It's above the steering wheel shaft and it takes about 15 minutes to get to. Good luck!
>The ignition switch doesn't carry ANY of the power that goes
>to the starter, so it has NO effect on burning one out.
Actually, power is sent to the starter solenoid and power is sent to the starter, and it will take out a solenoid due to time and wear. Bad Wires will also take out starters, Ignition switch and solenoids, so check it out sometime. I ended up replacing my solenoid 2 times before I realized that it wasn't the starter or it's solenoid going out, but something further. So I changed out the starter cable coming from the solenoid. It didn't stay engaged for about a week and when I changed the ignition switch, that was the last time it hung up on me